The Balmoral, Edinburgh — hotel review: classic luxury in the heart of the city

Jumping on a carbon-pumping flight for a cheeky weekend away feels passé.

Best then to stick to more sustainable options that can be reached by train. Enter Edinburgh. Just over four hours from Kings Cross, it’s one of the UK’s most impressive cities and The Balmoral is in the centre of the action.

Where is it?

It couldn’t possibly get more central. Step out of Edinburgh Waverly train station, make a sharp right, walk 20 seconds and you’ve arrived at The Balmoral. Smack bang in the middle of Princes Street with Carlton Hill and Arthur’s Seat to the right and with views over to the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle to the left, you have the city laid out before you.

Style

This Rocco Forte hotel is all about classic, comfortable luxury. Slide past the friendly kilted doormen and into the grand lobby where you’ll be greeted by many more smiling, attentive staff. Interiors are an elegant blend of neutrals and bold prints. Zingy floral curtains are layered next to plush sofas and plump cushions in suites. Modern touches creep in at the lively Brasserie Prince with its House of Hackney wallpaper and shabby chic pink leather banquettes, but it’s a grande dame of a place; somewhere you’d come on a special occasion or with the more exacting family members.

Food & drink

It’s a hub for locals. On a Friday night in the Princes Bar, the G&Ts were flowing and the excellent live music was entertaining. Slide through to the Brasserie Prince (run by Executive Chef Gary Robinson) for French fare with a Scottish twist. We feasted on fresh oysters and a butter-soft Scottish côte de boeuf. Breakfast is served here too and was excellent with everything from a full Scottish (haggis features, naturally) to eggs of all kinds and homemade granola.

For the special occasions, the hotel’s 4 AA Rosette restaurant Number One is a winner. Serving up a seven-course set menu, it’s a tasty tour through modern Scottish cuisine with fresh seasonal produce. Afternoon tea is served in Lounge Palm Court and all your night cap urges can be sated by one of the 500 whiskey varieties at SCOTCH bar.

Facilities

The spa is a sanctuary with a lap pool, sauna, steam room and gym. Using Irene Forte Skincare products, there is a weighty treatment list offering everything from facials to body rituals to special massages for clients going through or recovering from cancer performed by Cancer Touch Therapy (CTT) trained therapists. And, if you’re heart is still dreaming of sunnier climes, the Time in The Med treatments are done using volcanic stones from Mt Etna and oils created using the flora of Sicily.

Extracurricular

The hotel offers too many activities and excursions to mention. Among the most popular are the golf experiences, gin tasting and Instagram walking tours. The Balmoral also provides a scent butler and a poet-in-residence, but you get the feeling you could ask for anything and it would be arranged swiftly and with a smile.

Which room?

The Balmoral is an Edinburgh landmark and its 200-ft clock tower can be seen from all over the city (very much reducing the chances of getting lost after a dram too many). As such, it’s a behemoth of a place with 168 rooms and 20 suites. Spring for a suite with views of the castle if you possibly can.

Best for…

Anyone with something to celebrate and who wants the charms of Edinburgh within walking distance.

Details

Rooms from £180 in low season and from £710 in high season, breakfast not included; roccofortehotels.com