Beaujolais Nouveau Day 2018: where to celebrate the world's biggest wine party in London

Totem wines
Totem wines

This Thursday is Beaujolais Nouveau Day, the day we receive the ‘vin de primeur’, or preview wines, of the year’s harvest from the Beaujolais region.

Winemakers release their ‘baby Beaujolais’, having been fermented for just a few short weeks, to eagerly awaiting bars and bistros, traditionally met with cries of “Les Beaujolais est arrivé!”

Under French law, the release may come no sooner than precisely 12:01 am on the third Thursday of November, and is celebrated with fireworks, music, tastings and parties. The celebrations originate from Paris, where the race to see whose wines could make it to the bars first whipped the city into a wine-soaked frenzy - and the festivities have been embraced with gusto across London, with many a jovial party in the streets and in the wine bars of those in-the-know.

The Beaujolais region, the scrappy little brother to Burgundy, was once famed for easy-drinking, light and ‘gluggable’ juice from the Gamay grape, made fruity and approachable (and at times confectionery-style simple), through the winemaking method known as ‘carbonic maceration’, which results in low tannins and occasionally a distinct bubblegum pop. This gluggable vin-de-soif climbed to a peak and then, as these things do, promptly fell out of fashion. But, while the bubblegum-simple style may have tumbled from grace, a more thoughtful, terroir-driven style has flowed in its place, and we’re all the better for it.

‘Beaujolais Villages’ offer value and approachability simultaneously, and the Crus at the top of the game such as Morgon, Moulin-A-Vent and Fleurie proudly grace the higher end of attention-worthy wine lists, offering a perfect balance of structure, lightness, strength. The very best will combine rich red fruit, black pepper, smoke and perfume, and are worthy of respect.

But, lighthearted and juicy ‘Bojo’ still has a place and is quite delicious in its simplicity, and ‘Bojo Nouveau’ Day is the time to celebrate this. Made for guzzling - this early-drinking style still makes use of the carbonic maceration to make sure it’s good to glug . And, come that third Thursday of November, ready to glug we are.

Find yourself a Beaujolais party this Thursday (Totem wines)
Find yourself a Beaujolais party this Thursday (Totem wines)

To get involved, head to one of the many tasting parties dotted around town:

1. Noble Rot is hosting its annual Fête Du Beaujolais, where cult-favourite winemakers Andrew and Emma Nielsen of Le Grappin plus friends will be on hand pouring their beautiful Gamays in the bar from 3pm - 8pm.

2. Head to Bermondsey’s Tanner Street, where Totem Wines and Pique-Nique are hosting a winemaker party; juice will be flowing and you can mop it all up with rotisserie chicken and hearty bowlfuls of sausage and lentils.

3. In Brixton, Salon Wine Store will be offering free tastings of a delicious range of ‘Bojo Novo’ juice as well as cracking open a keg of Fleurie Poncie 2016 from Le Grappin, plus there will be a special ‘Strictly Bangers’ party in-store on Saturday 17.

4. Over in Farringdon, Quality Chop House’ Quality Wines will be offering the antithesis to Nouveau, showing off the best of aged Beaujolais with older vintages and magnum bottles.

You’ve got to be quick to get your hands on the fun Beaujolais Nouveau specifically, but, if you can’t make it to the events, then why not make the most of the excuse at home with a slightly more serious and mature (non-nouveau) Beaujolais bottle?

(Le Grappin)
(Le Grappin)

Here are a handful to try:

1. Le Grappin 17 Beaujolais-Villages <<Nature>>, £18, Salon Wine Store

Beautiful, natural Gamay from talented husband-and-wife winemaking duo Andrew & Emma Nielsen. Light and juicy with a hint of petillance that adds to the freshness of this juicy number.

2. Santini Collective & Vin Noé Beaujolais Lantignié ‘Les Vergers' 2017, £27, Provisions London

A joint effort between two unsung heroes of the region, this is a balanced and elegant example from the Lantignié village, a spot hotly tipped as the ‘11th Cru’ of Beaujolais.

3. Chateau Cambon Recolte 2017, £16.55, Les Caves

Wild fruits, smokiness, depth and texture come together in this organic wine from wine producer Marie Lapierre.

4. Jean Foillard Morgon ‘Cote du Py’ Beaujolais 2015, £29.00, Drop Wine

From one of the godfathers of modern-day mature Beaujolais, comes this excellent bottle, where a couple of years ageing shows how majestic Gamay can be when treated properly. Order from the excellent Drop wine app and pick up some cheese while you’re at.