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The best places to eat and drink in Soho

Luke Thomas is the 25-year-old chef-owner of the member’s club Blacks on Soho's Dean Street - Blacks Club
Luke Thomas is the 25-year-old chef-owner of the member’s club Blacks on Soho's Dean Street - Blacks Club

Luke Thomas, who made headlines as the UK’s youngest head chef when he was just 18, is the 25-year-old chef-owner of the member’s club Blacks, restoring the Georgian Soho townhouse to its 18th-century roots as a supper club venue.

“I like the wild, wonderful spirit of Soho. Although rents have hiked up and bigger brands have moved in, there’s still the old independent gems full of characters, and a new wave of really exciting food,” he says. Here are his most frequented haunts…

The French House

The French House - Credit: Peter Clark
A dish at The French House on Dean Street Credit: Peter Clark

“An intimate, Grade II listed pub and a real Soho institution. A no-tech rule means it’s a place for socialising with the person next to you. Chef Neil Borthwick’s confit garlic on toast is amazing.”

49 Dean Street, London W1D 5BG; frenchhousesoho.com

Bar Italia

“A coffee shop that stays open until the early hours of the morning, always packed with interesting people, and part of the fabric of Soho. It almost feels rude to have anything other than an espresso.”

22 Frith Street, London W1D 4RF; baritaliasoho.co.uk

Kiln

Kiln Soho
Kiln Soho

“I’d go as far as to say that this tiny, affordable, Thai-inspired place is my favourite restaurant in Europe. You can’t book, so expect a queue, but once you’re sitting at the counter watching the open-grill clay pots and wok cooking, it’s worth every second of waiting. The flavours of the beef neck curry are so unique – spice, citrus, heat. It’s like nothing I’ve ever experienced anywhere else before. I go about once a week!”

58 Brewer Street, London W1F 9TL; kilnsoho.com

Duck Soup

“A stripped-back, relaxing place with a record player in the corner. If you’re lucky, grab the little table just outside the front door and sit and watch the world go by. The most lovable thing is how they treat humble ingredients: if you’re not a vegetable lover, this is the place to go to fall for them.”

41 Dean Street, London W1D 4PY; ducksoupsoho.co.uk

Barrafina

Barrafina Soho - Credit: Greg Funnell
Credit: Greg Funnell

“Such a treat; it’s unique the way they’ve brought a true, authentic taste of Spain to Soho, from the decor to the atmosphere to the food. I love the buzz; all the staff are Spanish, there’s a beautiful display of fresh fish and the food is no-nonsense.”

26-27 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL; barrafina.co.uk

 

Blacks will host Sunday roasts and supper clubs, for members and non-members, from Sept 22; blacksclub.com