The best thing since sliced bread: Our pick of the top loaves in London restaurants

·3-min read
Enchanting: treacle soda bread at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill  (Kerridge’s Bar & Grill)
Enchanting: treacle soda bread at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill (Kerridge’s Bar & Grill)

Injera at Zeret kitchen

Cast aside your preconceptions because this pancake-like Ethiopian and Eritrean delight will change how you feel about bread forever. A tangy, slightly spongy, fermented flatbread made with teff, injera is used as a plate-like base, designed to be torn and used to scoop and mop stews and curries in lieu of cutlery. And it’s addictive. But no fear, because Zeret owner Tafeswork Belayneh is always on hand for top-up after top-up when you’ve scoffed the lot.

216-218 Camberwell Road, SE5,

Roti at Roti King

This lively, yet slightly dingy looking hobbit hole around the corner from Euston station always has a queue — and for good reason. Once inside, you’ll find the very best light, flaky rounds of roti that practically sweat butter. Made for shovelling saucy, spicy kari into one’s mouth at speed, don’t be surprised when you find yourself ordering another three and definitely don’t wear your best clothes.

40 Doric Way, NW1,

The Parkerhouse roll at Kitchen Table

The tear-and-share at Kitchen Table (Kitchen Table)
The tear-and-share at Kitchen Table (Kitchen Table)

Do you know what one needs at the start of a 20-course tasting menu? No, not air. The answer is James Knappett’s two-Michelin-star tear-and-share loaf. A warm cluster of miniature buns that are aptly shaped like a crown, it’s served with lashings of cultured butter, preserved wild garlic and a sprinkling of crunchy Maldon sea salt. Eat every last crumb because it’s worth waddling out of the door for.

70 Charlotte Street, W1,

Treacle soda bread at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill

To those who can’t see why sweet can’t come before savoury, this one’s for you. An unmistakably Tom Kerridge dish, these rich, cake-like slices of doughy deliciousness, served with dollops of the restaurant’s simple, salted butter are as enchanting as the art on the walls.

10 Northumberland Avenue, WC2,

Wholewheat sourdough at Da Terra

A slice of bread is often only as good as what you put on it, and this fantastically baked sourdough from the two-Michelin-star kitchen of Rafael Cagali comes with not one, but four accompaniments which are a delight for the senses. These include a scoop-it-yourself bone marrow and three different cultured butters starring sea salt, pink peppercorn and olive oil.

8 Patriot Square, E2,

Mosbolletjies at Kudu

Brioche at Kudu (Kudu)
Brioche at Kudu (Kudu)

This sweet, brioche-like bun is not a “bread for the table” type of order. Be prepared to fight your dinner date to the death. Or perhaps just order two. Now affectionately known as the Michelin-starred restaurant’s “Kudu bread”, it gluttonously soaks up the accompanying dishes of rich, salty, seafood butter with baby shrimp and melted smoked bacon butter with sage. Chewing is optional.

119 Queen’s Road, SE15,

Sourdough at St John

Stop! Don’t roll your eyes. Yes, you know this one. We all know this one. But we can’t not mention it. Served by long-standing Michelin-starred establishment St John and many other restaurant owners who openly admit that they can’t bake better than Mr Henderson, this tangy loaf is proven for 36 hours, sports a simultaneously crispy yet chewy crust and a substantial crumb that’s incredibly difficult not to scoff before the starters arrive. Good luck.

26 St John Street, EC1,

Grilled Potato Bread at Brunswick House

If one carbohydrate isn’t enough for you, pitch up for a serving of this glistening loaf by Jackson Boxer. Concocted by working week-long fermented mashed potato into an olive oil-enriched dough, it’s basted with brown butter and slowly roasted over a wood fire. Much like a baked potato, the result is crisp on the outside, perfectly fluffy in the middle and is best dished up with a dollop of butter — this one is paired with a moreish green garlic number.

30 Wandsworth Road, SW8,

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