The best wines to drink with game

The beginning of game season signals a change. As the first shots of hunting season are fired in mid-August, on the ‘Glorious Twelfth’, it serves as a reminder of what’s to come: darker nights, cooler temperatures, and heartier dishes… for me it’s when I officially start looking to the autumn.

It’s hard to mourn the loss of summer when there’s so much to look forward to and, culinary-wise, this season has got to be the height of joy - where properly tasty comfort food is mopped up in cosy pubs with a few glasses of good red wine, before wrapping up in layers and strolling home through pathways of amber leaves.

All of this is ushered in with the arrival of game birds appearing on menus across September and into October. Grouse is first, followed by partridge and, later in the season, deep-flavoured pheasant and duck. Often served country style, grouse can be gloriously rustic and simple - the traditional fare being with game, chips & bread sauce, though across London’s menus you can expect to find additional flavours, the likes of truffle, pancetta, even a curried version here and there. But each will have something in common; robustly flavoured, game is characterised by its distinct ‘gamey’ flavour and, importantly when it comes to wine matching, leanness.

Lean meats can be tricky with red wine, so look for bottles that are low in tannin as they work best when there’s little fat to offset the structure. The perfect wine pairing for game has equal boldness and character, good depth of flavour and, of course, those low tannins.

That means classic red Burgundy, preferably with a bit of age, will work wonders, as will Beaujolais and lighter northern Italian reds such as Barbera or Dolcetto. Lean to soft, supple Northern Rhône when there are other flavours in the dish you want your wine to stand up to, and for New World fans, try a New Zealand Pinot Noir. For white wines, look for weightier types like a Chardonnay from the Mâcon, or a nice, plump Viognier.

Here are a few picks to try:

Alexandre Burgaud Beaujolais Villages, 2016. Berry Bros. & Rudd £11.50

A great value wine, nicely perfumed with approachable black cherry, plum and subtle violet, and just the right amount of structure.

Araldica Barbera d’Asti Superiore. Waitrose, £9.49

Bright sour cherry and juicy raspberry are softened by sweet spice, adding a lovely mellowness. Closing with rounded tannins and a smooth finish.

Bodegas Poncé Clos Lojen Bobal 2015. Roberson Wine £20

This is a perfect partner for grouse - full of warmth, gentle spice and depth of flavour, without quite the intensity or tannic power of bigger Spanish wines. Notes of wild black fruits and dried herbs will work well with hearty sauces.

Domaine de la Vougeraie ‘Terres de Famille’ Bourgogne Rouge 2013. Berry Bros. & Rudd. £26.95

Classic Burgundy with grouse is a wonderful pairing. This wine is poised, blackberry and damson-scented, and with a smooth, silky texture.

Kumeu Village Auckland Pinot Noir, 2017. The New Zealand Cellar £14.70

A pleasingly juicy New World Pinot Noir with bright, tart red berries and a smooth finish. A brilliant value wine that’s deliciously drinkable.

Florent Rouve Viré-Cléssé Vielles Vignes, Burgundy, 2015. M&S Wine £14.50

With fruity white peach, ripe apple and citrus, this Viré-Clessé from the Maconnais has nice concentration and a touch of oak for a white wine with lovely richness.

Abbie Moulton is ES Lifestyle's wine and drink columnist. Follow her @abbiemoulton