I was bitten by giant ants, came off a quad bike and became so ill I thought I'd die - but it was all worth it

Trip to Thailand with G Adventures
-Credit: (Image: Conaill Corner)


It's three days before I'm due to fly to Bangkok and my excitement has turned to dread. Over the past week, those close to me have been swept with illness and now it's now my turn. This isn't just your average cold either - it's nasty. A sensible person would probably cut their losses and accept that a trip halfway across the world isn't in their best interests - but then, I've never been known for being especially sensible.

This was an adventure that, had I missed it, would have given me a sickening sense of regret which would have been as bad or worse than any virus I'd picked up. However, that's not to say I didn't find myself wishing I'd stayed at home once or twice on my travels.

I'd be experiencing the majority of the trip with a company called G Adventures, which organises you into a small group of fellow travellers - many of whom, like me, are complete strangers to one another. You pay a price for the tour and the organisation will sort out everything else from a guide (or CEO: Chief Experience Officer) to hotels, excursions, travel (excluding flights to and from the start destination) and selected meals.

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G Adventures takes people of all ages to destinations from every corner of the globe, including the Inca Trail, the Sahara Desert, Antarctica and the Himalayas. The South East Asia trip which I'd booked, called 'Southern Thailand Sojourn: Nightlife & National Parks', would, over eight days, take our group from the bustling streets of Bangkok to the lush jungles of Khao Sok before allowing us to experience the colourful coral reefs, lively bars and clear blue waters of the islands of Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan.

But before all of that, I had to navigate my way out of Bangkok Airport which, to anyone who hasn't had the pleasure, sounds easier than it is. Hectic is an understatement. While waiting for a taxi, I witnessed one young woman break down, telling a not-so-interested security guard that she'd left all of her travel documents on the plane, prompting me to triple-check that I still had mine. Phew!

Still sick but still in one piece - despite my driver's best efforts - I got my head down in a private room at a hostel only a short walk from the G Adventures meeting point where I'd introduce myself to my fellow travellers the following evening.

Day one

The group was scheduled to meet at our modest hotel at 5pm, meaning I had the better part of a day to explore my surroundings.

Don't get me wrong, palaces and temples - which can be found in Bangkok - are great, but my main interest in the city was the food, of which there is no shortage. Wanting to try some authentic local cuisine, I stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Madame Musur on Ram Buttri Road, a street which is a well-known hub for backpackers and tourists.

While pad Thai and green curry are good dishes, I thought I'd eat something you don't usually see in your average Thai restaurant back home: khao soi gai - yellow curry egg noodles with chicken, shallots, ginger, spice paste and coconut milk. The sauce was fiery with depth, while the chicken fell off the bone. A good helping of noodles was cooked to perfection.

Khao soi gai - yellow curry egg noodles with chicken, shallots, ginger, spice paste and coconut milk
Khao soi gai - yellow curry egg noodles with chicken, shallots, ginger, spice paste and coconut milk -Credit:Conaill Corner

Before long, it was time to meet the group along with our guide, a local man named Two. After he explained what the next week would entail, we all headed to a nearby restaurant to break bread and drink a few bottles of the Thai beer Chang. There were around 12 of us, mostly from England and Ireland, along with a couple of Canadians, a Peruvian, a Dutch and a Lithuanian. I was determined that my new Canadian friends, who, when I asked "Is Toronto a good city?", thought I said "My mum lives in Montreal", would understand my scouse accent by the end of the trip.

On our way back to the hotel, we took a stroll down the notorious Khaosan Road, which could only be described as a modern-day Sodom and Gomorrah. There were hundreds of vendors selling fried insects and crocodiles, while we turned down numerous attempts to lure us into several bars and nightclubs offering reduced drinks, laughing gas and the infamous 'ping pong shows'.

One stall selling deep-fried scorpions caught my eye and, before I knew it, one of the group had persuaded me with the old "I'll have one if you have one first" trick. I won't be eating another.

Day two

Tonight we would spend on a sleeper train on our way to Khao Sok National Park but not before food poisoning, fever and a sense of dread had set in. My already particularly nasty illness had floored me and progressed into symptoms of a serious bacterial infection - not man flu, which certain people I told about my ordeal back home were quick to dismiss as!

Fellow travellers in the group who'd already taken a ride on the same train we were due to take had kindly informed me of how awful it would be and this, faced with the fact that there would be no hospitals for miles once we were rolling through the countryside, led me to seriously question whether I should be taking the journey.

While I weighed up my options, our guide Two took me to the pharmacy where they prescribed me multiple different drugs including strong antibiotics. It looked like I'd be continuing onward.

The train station in Bangkok has a wonderful food hall with many different vendors serving various cuisines. It was here that I bought myself a chicken feet soup, which, thanks to its warmth, spice and healthy ingredients, revitalised me and had me feeling able to take on the train.

Added reassurance came upon the discovery that around half of my group were qualified medical professionals, whether that be doctors, nurses or midwives. Another nice surprise was that the train, despite being described to me as the opposite, was really comfortable. We each had our own bed with a curtain and a window to watch the outside world.

The sound of the train going throughout the night would have sent me into a deep sleep, had it not been for one man shouting "COFFEE" every 20 minutes. It's 2am mate, please leave me alone.

Day three

An early bus journey took us into the wilderness and rainforest of Khao Sok, to Kao Thep Pitak Community-Owned Farm where we would have a breakfast of boiled eggs, chicken noodles and fresh fruit. Crossing narrow bridges and Buddhist temples, we trekked through the forest, observing rubber trees, remote woodland villages and the occasional giant spider. I learned the hard way to watch where I stand after my feet found their way into a fire ant nest.

There'd be no time to cry about it though, as we boarded a longtail boat to view the breathtaking limestone cliffs and dense rainforest of Cheow Lan Lake before swimming and having a fresh fish lunch at a floating raft house.

Lake Cheow Lan
Lake Cheow Lan -Credit:Conaill Corner

In the afternoon we journeyed to the Khao Sok Rainforest Resort where, in the space of ten seconds, I witnessed one monkey rip another's face off before mating with a different monkey as though nothing had happened.

After more fish for dinner, the Canadian couple in our group introduced me to a Nepalese card game simply known as 'Gamble'. Each person is given five cards and must finish each round with the lowest points. To add even more fun to the game, they used a Kama Sutra card deck they'd bought in Kathmandu, allowing us all to discover who had the filthiest minds.

After I lost several games of Gamble, everyone went to bed, listening to the sweet sounds of the jungle.

Day four

Heading across southern Thailand, we boarded a ferry to the island of Ko Pha Ngan. During the around two-hour boat ride, we experienced every different kind of weather from the beating sun to harsh winds and heavy rain. Being in Thailand, the heat stays at a nice 30 degrees however, October is an unpredictable time to visit the country as the monsoon season comes to a close.

Ko Pha Ngan
Ko Pha Ngan -Credit:Conaill Corner

As we reached our beachside hotel, the weather was calm and perfect for a dip in the sea. I've never seen water as still as the warm, clear water I swam in that afternoon, with not a wave in sight. During dinner on the beach, we witnessed the first of several fire shows we would watch, while an extremely young Thai child set off fireworks, putting us a little on edge.

Day five

We woke up with a full day ahead to experience the beauty of Ko Pha Ngan. After taking a taxi high into the middle of the island, we took a hike up a steep jungle trail to reach the Bottle Beach Viewpoint.

The final part of the trail involves navigating a narrow ridge at a great height, but the incredible view makes the risk of death worthwhile. The breathtaking green and blue landscape had me feeling as though I'd escaped to a tropical desert island - and I didn't ever want to leave.

Bottle Beach Viewpoint
Bottle Beach Viewpoint -Credit:Conaill Corner

After finding our way back down the path, and stopping to take a few pictures of our natural surroundings, we got back into the minibus and set off towards our next natural wonder: the waterfalls of Namtok Than Sadet National Park. Climbing across huge boulders while being bitten by ants along the way, just four of us made it to the highest waterfall.

Finally, it was time to head to Haad Son Beach on the west coast of the island. After a swim, we all ordered a few beers at Koh Raham Bar Beach Club and watched the most amazing sunset.

Day six

Today we'd say goodbye to Ko Pha Ngan and hello to Ko Tao, an island famed for its colourful coral reefs and vibrant nightlife. But first, a boat would take us to a miniature private island called Ko Nang Yuan. Here, we would get our snorkelling gear on and spend hours watching exotic sea creatures go about their business on the coral. Time doesn't exist underneath the water's surface so flew by quickly.

Getting back onto the boat, we then travelled around Ko Tao, jumping off the top deck into the sea every so often to explore the most impressive coral reefs. On our adventure, we saw stingrays, sharks and turtles.

We saw several sea turtles
We saw several sea turtles -Credit:Conaill Corner

After checking into our hotel in Sairee Beach, we went for dinner by the sea before hitting the town. We found ourselves at AC Bar and Beach Club which, judging by the crowds, was the place to be. We watched another fire show, this time even more extravagant while one of the performers couldn't have been older than 14.

There was a pool party at the club tonight but having no swim shorts with me, I was reluctant to get in. However, a few games of beer pong later I'd jumped in fully clothed, proceeding to splash strangers to the rhythm of the music. It was a thoroughly enjoyable night.

Day seven

On our last full day in Ko Tao, we had the option of scuba diving. However, as much as I'd love to go on a dive, my illness was just about beginning to leave my body and I wanted the day to explore Sairee Beach and relax.

Sairee Beach is home to many cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. After purchasing a few souvenirs and drinking an iced coffee or two, I stopped at a brilliant restaurant called Cattago! for some delicious seared fish on rice with spicy soup.

Seared fish on rice at Cattago!
Seared fish on rice at Cattago! -Credit:Conaill Corner

Tonight, there'd be yet another party with yet another fire show, as we all said our goodbyes before leaving the next morning. There was a little sadness as we parted ways with a group of strangers who had now become friends.

Day eight

My last day would involve a near-death experience. After another early start, I caught the ferry to Ko Samui before getting a taxi to my hotel, Sea Dance Resort.

After checking into my beautiful villa, I thought I'd do some quad-biking through the island's jungle terrain. On an organised tour, we began by driving down a flat road before going off-road onto narrow trails.

Only my second time on an ATV, and my first time on a track of this difficulty, after a ropey start, while turning down a very steep hill, I lost control of the bike and came off it before it came crashing down on top of me. While the vehicle began to crush my leg, I was just grateful I was still breathing.

After pulling the bike off off me and asking if I was alright, the tour leaders began to laugh at me and told me to get back on and continue. Health and Safety might have gone mad back home, but here it was non-existent.

Ko Samui
Ko Samui -Credit:Conaill Corner

Back at the hotel, I washed the large gash I'd acquired on my leg and had a few Changs for medicinal purposes. As I watched the calming waves as day turned to night, I reflected on my travels, close calls and new friends made and, despite some hiccups along the way, thought it all worthwhile.