Burberry London Fashion Week show: Riccardo Tisci begins his journey at Burberry

If there was a definitive ‘place to be’ at 17.27 this evening it was the Burberry show and the debut catwalk show from chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci.

Ahead of what is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated fashion shows in the super brand's history, Tisci chose an industrial space located behind the site of the new American Embassy in Vauxhall as the backdrop for his return to British fashion, twenty years after showing his graduate collection here in the capital.

The show ended months of speculation in which purveyors of style pondered how the brand famous for classic trench coats might look in the hands of an Italian outsider whose design signatures includes gothic romanticism and Kim Kardashian’s wedding dress.

It was when the first bars of Massive Attack’s Unfinished Symphony soared above Tisci’s catwalk and the black blinds blocking out the natural light slid back to reveal bright blue London sky that this new dawn began.

First on the catwalk in a show with which Tisci sought to communicate with a host of opposing Burberry men and women - from the boardroom executive to a millennial influencer - was (yes, you guessed it) a trench coat. Classic in shape and pulled in at the waist via an oversized claret leather belt, this was Tisci’s promise that he came in peace.

Scarves which borrowed prints from collections of old were used as fastenings on outerwear and served as literal proof that Tisci had spent his first season in charge digging deep in the archive. There was also a lot in the way of checks on display with Tisci interpreting Burberry’s signature motif on lapels and linings.

Keen to reassert the label as one which should appeal to a grown up customer who wants luxury clothes that work hard in her wardrobe, he unveiled side skimming pencil skirts, Dalmatian print blouses and masterfully tailored jackets. While this was a collection deep rooted in London culture and Tisci’s attempt at reflecting the melting pot that is our capital, it spoke to metropoles - and the Burberry customers who inhabit them - across the globe. Male models who evoked images of Bret Easton Ellis’ Patrick Bateman with slicked back hair, perfectly cut workwear shirts and umbrella holders, which nodded to Burberry’s roots as a rainwear outfitter, stood as fine examples.

As the show continued, the sense of restraint weakened somewhat with Tisci reverting to an aesthetic which was more recognisable as his own. Playing with streetwear trends, he unveiled nylon parkas alongside bandage dresses in military hues. Tisci said he’d been thinking about journeys - both literal and physcological - when creating the collection and printed the word ‘departures’ on polo shirts and skater t-shirts to hammer home his point.

For evening, things took an feminine turn with long black cocktail dresses - included to reflect the formality of British occasions - the takeaway pieces.

Accessories are major business for Burberry and this collection was loaded with them with smart shoulder bags featuring Tisci’s interpretation of the logo, graphite splayed tote bags and peep-toe court shoes all key components in his reinvention strategy.

The 44-year-old Italian designer, who follows in the footsteps of Christopher Bailey’s 17-year tenure, is well versed in luxury rebrands. Prior to his appointment at Burberry, Tisci was first in command at Givenchy which benefited from buoyant profits and a mass of celebrity followers during his time in charge.

If you’ve found yourself circling Marble Arch in a cab, or indeed pounding the pavements of Regent Street recently, you’ll understand that today’s showcase is the latest chapter in a rebranding exercise that has been underway for a while. In August, Tisci unveiled his take on the Burberry logo - a collaboration with graphic designer Peter Saville - which has been unchanged for nearly 20 years. In an attempt to acquaint the customer with the idea that change is afoot, the logo been splayed across Burberry’s Regent Street shop front and more noticeably, across a giant teddy bear positioned on the Marble Arch roundabout. Other titillations intended to harbour some of the excitement surrounding today’s reveal included an overhaul of the flagship store at 121 Regent Street which reopened on Saturday and a collection of limited edition t-shirts which could be purchased via Instagram.

Undoubtedly, it is Tisci’s power as a social media megaphone that makes him an attractive proposition to powers that be at Burberry. While the house which benefits from partnerships with a host of forward thinking tech giants is miles ahead of many of its contemporaries where digital innovations is concerned, its customers remain hungry for growth.