The charming village just two hours from Manchester that's like stepping back in time
It's no great secret that the coastline of North Wales is home to some of the UK’s very best beaches. From the coastal villages of Anglesey to the cliffs and dunes of Black Rock Sands, there’s plenty to explore.
Day-trippers are known to flock to the likes of Barmouth on the estuary of the River Mawddach and Cardigan Bay to enjoy miles of unbroken sands, while further north Llandudno, which is famed for its North Shore and 19th-century pier, families head for a day out in the summer months.
The list really does go on, it almost feels endless. But with the clocks changing and the dark nights drawing in, the allure of North Wales shifts somewhat.
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Summer is all about the seaside, but autumn gives visitors a chance to soak up the raw beauty of the country in a different way, notably in the Eryri (Snowdonia) mountains. A perfect base for exploring the national park is the bucolic village of Beddgelert in Gwynedd.
The charming spot with slate-roofed cottages, winding lanes and cosy tearooms, sits at the confluence of the rivers Colwyn and Glaslyn, and many say it is one of the loveliest villages in the region. A place of legend, culture and history, it is popular all year round, but its beauty shines best as the leaves take on an orange hue and the desire to find refuge in a cosy pub becomes all the more appealing.
To understand a bit more about the place, you have to go back in time, The legend of Beddgelert for example, has its roots in the 13th Century when the picturesque valley in Snowdonia was home to Llewelyn Prince of North Wales.
Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, also known as Llywelyn the Great, was the sole ruler of Gwynedd in the year 1200. He ruled Wales for more than 40 years, and was one of only two Welsh rulers to be called "the Great".
Known to keep dozens of dogs, one shone above the rest, and was known as Gelert the Irish wolf-hound - the only hound allowed to sleep in the family’s lodge, and trusted to keep guard of the prince’s children. However, one day, the prince went out hunting and decided to leave his faithful dog to look after his young baby son.
On his return, Gelert joyfully sprang to meet his master, but to the prince’s horror, Gelert’s fur was stained with blood. He then noticed the infant’s cot was empty, and the bedding and floor covered with blood. Enraged, he drew his sword and plunged it into Gelert.
The dog’s final yelp was answered by a child’s cry. He lifted the cot and found the baby unharmed, but lying next to him was the body of a wolf, which Gelert had killed to protect the baby.
In an act of loyalty the dog had lost his life, but vowing to honour him, the prince made use of a burial usually reserved for a nobleman in a meadow just beyond the village that is now known as Beddgelert (Gelert’s grave).
Many visitors take the journey along the tree-lined stream southwards, past the stone church St Mary’s and pay a visit to the dog’s grave - two stone markers shaded by a tree - or venture along the path to Beudy Buarth Gwyn where inside a bronze cast of Gelert sits.
The grave by the tree was built by the late 18th-century landlord of the Goat Hotel, David Pritchard, who created it in order to encourage tourism. And it's certainly worked.
The tale draws many tourists to the village, as does similar folklore about the origins of Beddgelert - some say Gelert was a 5th-century monk who lived close by - but once there, many take the opportunity to take in the beauty of the vistas or give one of the many hiking trails a go. Gelert’s grave is part of a circular trail about a mile in length, but there’s more options for those who wanted a longer excursion.
Lôn Gwyrfai is a path popular with walkers, cyclists and horse riders and stretches just over four miles between Beddgelert and Rhyd Ddu. It’s also a great starting point for those wanting to take on Snowdon. There are some exceptional go-to mountain peaks in the Snowdonia range and within 2-3 miles of Beddglert there are six routes up Snowdon as well as other mountain walks.
Also nearby, visitors will find the Sygun Copper Mine, which was mined as far back as Roman times, and a train station for the Welsh Highland Railway, which runs between Caernarfon and Porthmadog. And, if you’re a bit of a thrill seeker, a short drive away you’ll find the acclaimed Zip World - the world’s fastest zip line that stretches over a rocky valley above a crystal clear lake.
In the centre of the village, the babbling brook running beneath Beddglert’s stone bridge is a popular spot for pictures, while the pubs that flank it make for the perfect stopping off point. Tanronnen Inn is well known for its homemade food and cosy feel, while Prince Llewelyn Hotel and Restaurant provides perfect views and pints, and Saracens Head Hotel and Restaurant is a beautiful country with a great beer garden at the front looking out onto the river.
For those in search of sustenance after a hike or adrenaline-fuelled activity, Caffi Colwyn is a popular spot. A family-run, dog friendly cafe with a tea garden that sits alongside the tranquil river, it can be found on the route to Gelert’s Grave and the stunning Aberglaslyn Pass. Bistro Hebog meanwhile, showcases Welsh ingredients in all their glory.
A must before you leave though is Glaslyn Artisan Ice Cream and Pizza - the oldest ice cream parlour and pizzeria in Snowdonia National Park. Named after the river that flows through the legendary village, they’ve been crafted the sweet treats since the early 70s, with the ice creams a popular choice whatever the season.