'I compared Bisto, Tesco, Asda and M&S instant gravy and only one shop beat the best'

Whether it's driving through back lanes or using AI to write an essay, shortcuts are not generally looked upon well. But that rule is ten-fold when it comes to cooking. Who can forgive being served up instant mash with its runny, powdery residue, when real potatoes are so much tastier? I'd add canned pineapple slices and supermarket mulled wine to other shortcut horrors best avoided when serving up the real deal is, in fact, pretty easy.

But one kitchen shortcut most of us are all too happy to accept is instant gravy. I recently looked up the ingredients for making gravy from scratch - butter, flour, beef dripping, chicken juices, herbs... as if making a Sunday roast wasn't enough of a kerfuffle already. Luckily, one of the nation's favourite gravy brands, Bisto, came along in 1908 and made cooking dinners so much easier.

I'll admit being a newbie when it comes to Bisto (my mother always used Oxo), but it's the gravy brand which takes up the most space on supermarket shelves with its various iterations compared to rivals. Today, I'll be comparing Bisto Original with supermarket own brands Tesco, M&S and Asda's instant beef gravy granules.

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Bisto - £2.80 for 190g (£1.47/100g)

So here we start with the branded stuff. Opening the tub, the gravy granules look pleasing - they're small brown pellets that dissolve pretty easily in hot water. I follow the instructions, four heaped teaspoons in half a pint of hot water, and voila. It's like a warm taste from childhood.

It's got hints of beef and richness, but there's something a little lacklustre. Maybe I need to put more in? Another half spoonful but I'm still left wanting more. I noticed Bisto has an 'extra special' brand on the supermarket shelf, which makes me suspicious - why wouldn't they focus on making the original better? It may have been around since 1908 but it's not the complete gravy experience for me.

Rating: 3/5

Tesco beef gravy granules - 85p for 200g (45.2p/100g)

Now on to Tesco, and the first thing I notice is how the pellets look so much different. They're longer and they have a spooky grey colour. In short, they look a bit like rodent droppings. Never mind, let's see what four and a half teaspoons do in half a pint of hot water.

It's lumpy and it's got a strangely metallic flavour, as though I were licking a piece of tin foil. It's also quite earthy and has a kind of malted quality. It's not bad enough to spoil a meal but as far as gravy goes, it's pretty mediocre.

Rating: 2/5

Marks & Spencer beef gravy granules - £2 for 200g (£1/100g)

M&S has so many different subtypes of gravy, it took me a while to find its beef granules. The pellets are a nice pale brown, much more aesthetic than Tesco's offering. It mixes beautifully and quickly achieves a thick consistency without getting lumpy. This is what beef gravy should taste like, it's dark and meaty, full-bodied and with rich depths like the finest red wine, rum and chocolate. Ace!

Rating: 5/5

Asda meat gravy granules - £1 for 200g (50p/100g)

Last but not least, we have Asda's 'meat' instant gravy granules, which I believe is Asda's closest approximation to beef stock with its red branding. The pellets are similar to Tesco in their grey pallor but they are not quite so Halloween-ish to look at.

It mixes well, if a little lumpy, but gives off an unpleasant, pungent aroma, a bit like chlorine. As for the taste? It's equally offensive on the palate, it has a very strong gelatin flavour more akin to dog food than anything I want on my Sunday dinner.

Rating: 1/5

The verdict

Britain's most famous upmarket foodhall takes the crown this week. M&S was the only supermarket brand to best Bisto, as Tesco's gravy granules were fairly mediocre and let's never discuss Asda's 'meat' monstrosity ever again.

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