Devon's posh-looking restaurant that's really down to earth

62 The Bank in Barnstaple
-Credit:DevonLive


The Bank in Barnstaple is one of those stylish, upwardly mobile restaurants that every town needs. If you're the aspirational type who enjoys long lunches with clients, a civilised meal with a partner or a cocktail in the lounge next door, then this is the place for you.

I'm not really any of those things but nobody appears to notice as I take a window seat. This gives me a good view of the salt of the earth outside heading along Boutport Street.

Barnstaple is Devon's sixth largest town but the biggest for miles around. It is a rugged, working town, with friendly locals and a famed Pannier Market. It comes to life in the summer with holidaymakers attracted to the region by the magnificent coastline, enormous beaches and surf.

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Places like 62 The Bank, to give it its proper title, are here to remind visitors they are part of a vibrant modern world of 'globally-inspired' menus of panko and parfait, not a Devon backwater of carrot crunching.

Burger at 62 The Bank in Barnstaple
Burger at 62 The Bank in Barnstaple -Credit:DevonLive

It's a Wednesday afternoon and on the quiet side. One couple is settling their bill, a pair of squaddies in uniform with international accents are sat on the table next to me - the huge Chivenor base is just up the road. Staff are attentive, smartly uniformed and friendly. A young member of staff is being trained on correct table service - a good sign.

The lunch menu is split between Bank Classics, Burgers and Brunch and Lunch. It's a broadly familiar offering with touches of imagination. Like the Devon crab mac and cheese, panko chicken waffle, and seafood or steak pancakes.

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As it happens I don't have much imagination and order the burger, properly titled The Bank Burger. It's a six ouncer with bacon, Swiss cheese, black garlic mayo, chips and house salad.

Now I love salt as much as the next pre-diabetic but The Bank Burger is a touch heavy on the sodium chloride. Still, I enjoy it. Nicely toasted bap and pleasant fruity salad dressing. It's a little on the dry side and it's only afterwards I discover the garlic mayo has slithered off the patty and down my shirt.

62 The bank in Barnstaple
62 The bank in Barnstaple -Credit:DevonLive

The chips have a concave look about them which is unusual and makes me slightly suspicious. But it's pointless to speculate too much about a chip. I wouldn't say they've been over generous with the portion but a chip is a chip concave or not.

Between courses I have time to look around the building. There is genuinely magnificent Jacobean plasterwork on the ceiling, which is apparently still in its original condition. It was part of the original merchant’s house in the early 17th century.

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Those were prosperous days for the town's wool and cloth trade. Biblical scenes are depicted amongst the intricate detail of the plasterwork. According to the website: "The ceiling also bears the arms of the company of Spanish merchants who would have commissioned the piece and the coat of arms for the borough of Barnstaple."

It became a bank in 1930 and later a NatWest. In 1996, it was bought by local hospitality bigwigs the Brend Group. In 2023, it was awarded an AA Rosette for culinary excellence.

Apple parfait at 62 The Bank in Barnstaple
Apple parfait at 62 The Bank in Barnstaple -Credit:DevonLive

For pudding it's apple parfait. This comes with a ginger crumb, cinnamon toffee sauce and Yarde Farm clotted cream vanilla ice-cream.

The taste is great - cream, cream and sauce is always a winner - though the parfait lacks a bit of airy consistency. I don't know if I'm being picky or just aspirational but it is £10 of my money. The crumb adds texture and the sauce a sweet richness.

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The entire bill with soft drink is just shy of £30. To my mind that's broadly in line with every other decent pub and bar in Devon. Probably too expensive but what can you do?

62 The Bank lives up to its billing of "a unique and contemporary style mixed with a wealth of history". You'll leave feeling just that little more refined and cosmopolitan.