Diana Henry's ultimate Easter menu starring roast leg of lamb

I have never experienced a winter that I wanted so much to turn into spring. Usually, I like the cold months, the slow cooking, the warm layers of clothing, the permission to retreat to the kitchen, but this year I could only get through it by focusing on Easter.

Easter doesn’t change anything, especially as it’s Christmas’s poor relation in terms of the trimmings.

This isn’t fair but it’s true. All the paraphernalia that could be part of an Easter celebration – twigs decorated with coloured eggs, front gardens full of chocolate eggs that passing children are encouraged to take – I’ve seen in Germany but not here. Scandinavians, even more desperate for light than we are, open their summer cottages and hang bunting. Children dress as witches and tour the neighbourhood looking for treats (rather like Hallowe’en here), giving willow branches as thanks to each home. Easter is more muted here. We do have simnel cake, even though it’s rarely made, and hot cross buns. Thank goodness for hot cross buns.

I don’t make them, I buy them (M&S, if you’re interested) and toast them every weekend as soon as they appear. They cheer me up. But the light is even more important. Nature played around with us a little in February, giving us some days that felt like spring before they were snatched back. In the sunshine you could smell the ground warming, or at least I thought I could. Humans are so full of hope.

Easter is not easy for cooks, at least not here. I look at Italy with its spiky artichokes, sweet little peas and courgettes that can be eaten raw. Easter should be full of this greenery, and pistachios, almonds, ricotta and marzipan too.

For years I’ve planned the Easter Sunday menu as if I was Greek or Italian. It’s not that I don’t want to be here, it’s just that you yearn to be as far into spring as southern countries.

I wish I was the kind of person who remembered to put flowers on every surface. Instead, I feel the little shifts in light and air and look up from my laptop wishing I had vases full of cherry blossom or pots of hyacinths. Note to self: think about flowers as well as thinking about food.

This meal would be good on any day of the Easter holiday. Some aren’t keen but there’s nothing wrong with having roast lamb in the evening. (Why should it just be for Sunday lunch?) Serve it with bunches of watercress – bunches always look better than watercress from bags (it wilts so quickly in those bags). Don’t overcook the lamb, that’s the only thing to worry about. Have the components for the pudding ready then forget about it until everyone feels like something sweet.

If you have time and there’ll be children around, make a simple cake, biscuits or brownies scattered with little pastel-coloured chocolate eggs. And flowers. Don’t forget the flowers.

What menu are you planning for the Easter weekend? Tell us in the comments below