Fay Maschler's week in food, from Portland to Alto by San Carlo

Fay Maschler
Fitzrovia haunt: Portland restaurant

A terrific dinner at Portland, marking a new slant to its menu, features an original hit — pithivier — this time served alongside roasted Aylesbury duck glazed with mead plus Husbandry School salad.

After hearing consummate pianist Paul Roberts discussing and playing Debussy’s Préludes at the Barbican, supper at Club Gascon’s Le Bar reveals perfect goose rillettes among the “frapas”.

A facial at Selfridges that involves almost edibly nourishing Elixseri products is followed by fritto misto at Alto by San Carlo on the store’s roof.

Joining the “dinner-jacketed picnickers” (Julian Barnes) for Puccini’s Madama Butterfly at Glyndebourne, the spread on the quilt kicks off with quail eggs to dip in celery salt.

After the McQueen documentary at Curzon Soho, prawn brioche at BaoziInn in Romilly Street, which happily opens day and evening for couture dim sum served in calm, courteous style. Nice jazz too.