Fay Maschler's week in food, from Flor to Wun's Tea Room & Bar

Fay Maschler

Scotch quails’ eggs served on a pile of hay from “Small Bites” are the best of what we choose from the ineffably unoriginal menu at Moncks of Dover Street.

The set-price August lunch at Angela Hartnett’s Murano (£45 for three courses) includes molto buono Carnaroli risotto with Scottish girolles and summer truffle.

Cod brandade, as I’ve never understood it before, at Flor, the bakery/wine bar/restaurant in Borough created by James Lowe and John Ogier from Lyle’s. Also, exceptional Anjou pigeon plus datterini, violet aubergine and feta tart.

A total indulgence is head chef Hamish Brown’s 15-course 15th anniversary menu at Roka Charlotte Street. Even the dressed iceberg lettuce is quite phenomenal.

What used to be Greek Street’s Bun House is now Wun's Tea Room & Bar. We channel, as directed, Sixties Hong Kong while eating wok-fried marrow and scallops with cured black bean.