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Fay Maschler's week in food: from Gilafi quail to crispy chicken skin and hazelnuts

Wistfully delicious: white chocolate Viennetta at Chez Bruce
Wistfully delicious: white chocolate Viennetta at Chez Bruce

1. Indian food and wine prove harmonious partners at the collaboration at Gymkhana with Noble Rot. Especially triumphant is Gilafi quail with La Souteronne Gamay 2015. Until March 31.

2. Blinis make my pancake day served with Nordic fish roes at Aster, where Finnish chef Helena Puolakka is in charge.

3. So many ravishing dim sum and other dishes are ordered at A Wong that a worried waiter warns us the kitchen is closing. Don’t miss Xian city “lamb burger” with sesame, coriander and chilli.

4. Compiling a list of 50 Favourite Restaurants I return to Chez Bruce to check it still fits. It does. Virtuoso lunch includes wistfully delicious white chocolate Viennetta.

5. After seeing Dancer at Curzon Mayfair we go to Kitty Fisher’s. Is new chef George Barson the Sergei Polunin of the kitchen? Who knows, but leeks, smoked hollandaise, crispy chicken skin and hazelnuts is a definite adagio.