Fay Maschler's week in food, from Taka to Noble Rot Soho

What was Providores in Marylebone is now the sleek Japanese Taka. Crisps studding chef Taiji”s mother’s secret recipe for potato salad is an idea I am pinching.

After loving Bill Murray in On the Rocks at Curzon Soho, sea bass with red chillies at Dumplings’ Legend in Chinatown.

With a cabal of restaurant critics, not politicians, at Noble Rot Soho - the new iteration of The Gay Hussar - roast chicken with morels and Vin Jaune, and a particularly fine riz au pilaf shared greedily but harmoniously.

My chum Melanie Jappy is an accomplished cook as deliciously demonstrated by her Kamado Joe-grilled Presa Ibérica with casseroled cannellini beans.

Maintaining the scorching intensity of Aaron Sorkin’s The Trial of the Chicago 7, supper at Quo Vadis starting, of course, with smoked eel sandwich with horseradish and pickled onion.

Read Fay Maschler's review this week, of jaunty brasserie in St James, Maison François.