Since he took the reins as Creative Director of Tod’s at the end of 2019, Walter Chiapponi, who’d previously done stints at Gucci and Valentino, has focussed on elevating the classic elegance of the Italian House, but with a twist of contemporary cool.
Never was that direction more clear than today at the brand’s Spring/Summer 22 show (Chiapponi’s second in-person runway event at the helm), which was opened and closed by Gen Z royalty Gigi Hadid and majored in super short hemlines and a youthful aesthetic. Biker jackets with rubber gommino elbow patches were worn with sporty trainer-cum-sock boots, and denim mini dresses with colourful sporty windbreakers. Leather bustiers with matching leather bucket hats and an oversized blazer worn with colourful knit leggings and chunky dad sandals had obvious influencer appeal. Mini skirts and dresses were a mainstay - with a striped crochet long-sleeved minidress with inbuilt exaggerated 70s-style leather collar a particular highlight - while capri pants, blouson jackets and hooded anoraks in black, coral and cerulean blue catered to the more mature Tod’s customer.
In footwear, the bestselling Gommino driving shoes came reinvented with giant bubble-like rubber soles and oversized fringing, and loafers came as platform heels. Chiapponi’s T Timeless handbags came in energetic yellow, turquoise and brick red alongside the more classic and timeless brick and brown – the old are not out, but Chiapponi’s Tod’s is most definitely all about the new.
See the gallery above for the best looks from Tod’s SS22