Goodbye Gay Hussar: Soho restaurant popular with Labour leaders finally closes its doors

A Soho dining landmark that has been hosting generations of gossiping Labour politicians for more than 60 years closes its doors for good tonight after falling victim to the decline of the long liquid lunch.

The Gay Hussar restaurant, which served Hungarian food, is renowned for regulars including former Labour leaders Michael Foot and Gordon Brown as well as the party’s titans, such as Aneurin Bevan, Ian Mikardo, Roy Hattersley and Barbara Castle, and ministers including Peter Mandelson, Chris Smith and Alan Milburn. Other frequent visitors included writers such as TS Eliot.

The Gay Hussar is also reputedly where Tony Blair was first persuaded to run for Parliament and Tory “wets” plotted against Margaret Thatcher.

A party tonight marks the failure of a five- year battle to save the Greek Street venue that began in 2013 when owner Corus Hotels announced it would put up for sale. A group of 160 journalists, politicians and lawyers formed the “Goulash Co-operative” with a contribution of at least £500 each in a bid to raise the funds to secure the lease.

Its offer was rejected but Malaysian-owned Corus agreed to keep the restaurant alive temporarily.

The restaurant was opened in 1953 by Victor Sassie, who trained in Hungary and launched his first establishment, the Budapest, in London in 1939.

The Gay Hussar’s specialities include smoked breast of goose and venison goulash, and it is known for the dozens of Martin Rowson caricatures of well-known politicians and union bosses.

Goulash Co-operative member and former editor of Left-wing magazine Tribune Mark Seddon said: “It will be a packed house tonight. It’s been full ever since the closure date was revealed, at lunch and in the evening. A lot of people are very sad.” Mr Seddon said the co-operative had raised more than £150,000 to take over the Gay Hussar lease for a possible relaunch but “it’s down to the landlords”. The freehold is owned by British Virgin Islands-registered Hermes Holdings Estate, a property investment vehicle backed by wealthy individuals.

Mr Seddon said: “I don’t think it’s going to be a problem raising more money. We are going to make a presentation to the landlords. We’re keen to reach an agreement with them quickly. The place has been run into the ground; there’s not been any investment and it’s not been open at weekends or for breakfast so there’s a lot of potential, especially with the extra footfall when Crossrail opens. It’s either that or it will end up as another designer shop or Pret A Manger.”

Figures expected to attend tonight’s closing party include former Labour leader Lord Kinnock and former chat show host Sir Michael Parkinson, who said: “The beating heart of the Gay Hussar has a special place in the social fabric of London. Long may it thrive.”