I had lunch next to a spinning millwheel in one of Cambs' 'best places to live'
For anyone who has dined around a wedding table, the concept of a centrepiece will not be an unusual one. One spot in Newnham, Cambridge, however, has a far more intriguing focal point than the typical floral arrangement.
Newnham has been named one of Cambridgeshire's best places to live by Muddy Stilettos, and the views from the restaurant window made me envious of anyone lucky enough to call this suburb home. The restaurant did not need an eye catching water feature; I would have been perfectly happy if the only view grabbing at my attention was the one outside: the tree-lined Mill Pond punctuated by punts.
Whether or not you have visited this restaurant or spotted the rust-coloured 'Millworks' sign while walking through the verdant meadows of Coe Fen, you are likely to have an idea of what this centrepiece is. The name gives the game away: it is, of course, a millwheel.
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This restored, spinning wheel enclosed in glass and dripping with water is a large slice of history, transporting diners back to a time when the building was a mill house. The back of the menu provides an insight into its turbulent past, from a brief visit by Queen Elizabeth I in 1564 to a devastating fire in 1853.
The current owners, who took over in 2016 and restored the millwheel, profess to a 'love' of the building's 'rich history' on the menu, and the truth of that is revealed through the décor. The wheel could have easily looked out of place, had it been plonked in the middle of a room painted with vivid colours or brightened with harsh white lights.
However, the dim, golden lighting and muted, industrial décor – with exposed piping features on the ceiling – complemented the wheel perfectly. I also spotted a miniature millwheel art feature on the wall next to my table, alongside circular, wheel-adjacent patterns around the bar area.
Having gained my fill of history, I flipped the menu over to the food side, and found dishes that ran the gamut from unpretentious pie and chips for £18.50 to ridiculously posh whole lobster, which came with thermador butter and the hefty price tag of £49.
I turned my attention to the sandwiches on the lunch menu, which included the three cheapest main meals: beetroot and feta wrap; sausage and caramelised onion ciabatta; and fish finger ciabatta. These all cost £12.90 and came with fries.
I opted for the wrap, which arrived promptly. The feta was deliciously salty, with a hint of tang, while the beetroot had its signature deep, sweet flavour.
The beetroot was cut into large chunks, and the warm, golden fries were also served in a generous pile. My dish was simple but tasty, and the experience was elevated by the sight of willow branches swaying in the breeze outside and, of course, the intriguing wheel spinning inside.
If you are looking for a post-meal coffee, Millworks is next to Bean Theory, where the flat whites are smooth, rich and strong. You can read my Bean Theory review here.
Millworks' lunch bookings options begin at 11.30am and end at 5pm, while tables for dinner can be booked between 5pm and 9.30pm. The restaurant's website describes good facilities for wheelchair users, with access via the side walk and an accessible toilet.
More information, such as the nearest carpark, can be found on the FAQ section of the restaurant's website.