I'm a New Yorker who visited Portland, Maine, for the first time. Here are 7 things that surprised me.

the author in front of port head light and a lobster roll from cousins maine
I recently visited Portland, Maine, for the first time and was surprised by how much I enjoyed the local food scene and touristy activities. Erin McDowell/Business Insider
  • I recently visited Portland, Maine, for the first time.

  • I was surprised by how much I enjoyed "touristy" activities like a lobster boat tour.

  • I was constantly reminded that I was by the ocean, despite being in a city.

I grew up in New England, and have spent many summers visiting popular destinations like Nantucket, Newport, and York Beach.

Until this past August, I had never been to Portland, Maine, even though friends and family kept telling me it's one of the best foodie cities in New England and should be on my travel list.

It's not just those I know personally who have raved about Portland's food scene — Bon Appétit named it the restaurant city of the year in 2018. So this summer, I decided to see it for myself.

Aside from access to amazing restaurants and its New England atmosphere, living in a smaller city like Portland has serious financial benefits. When I used Rent Cafe's cost-of-living calculator to compare the cost of living in Portland and New York City — where I live — based on my current salary, I found it was 38% lower in Portland.

However, the difference in the cost of living wasn't the only thing about Portland that surprised me. From the incredible food scene to my experience exploring the city, the most surprising things about Portland also became reasons I can't wait to return.

Here are seven things that surprised me about visiting Portland for the first time as a New Yorker.

I was surprised by how different the "Maine-style" lobster rolls tasted from one another.

cousins maine lobster roll
After trying five different lobster rolls, I was surprised by how differently they were all prepared. Erin McDowell/Business Insider

When I booked my trip to Portland, Maine, I knew I would be trying at least a few different lobster rolls. I ended up trying five from some of the city's most famous spots and was surprised by how differently they were all prepared.

Most were classic Maine-style rolls, which meant they were dressed with mayonnaise instead of warm butter. However, there were also variations in how much mayonnaise was used, how the lobster meat was prepared, the quality of the meat, and how much each roll cost.

I had assumed all lobster rolls were pretty much the same, but I was definitely mistaken. The one pictured above from Cousins Maine Lobster was succulent and juicy and came with just the right amount of mayonnaise.

However, my favorite roll was from Luke's Lobster thanks to its signature seasoning.

The food scene rivaled restaurants I've eaten at in New York City and Paris.

scallops from scales in portland maine
I was surprised that I ate better in Portland than I usually do in New York City. Erin McDowell/Business Insider

While the lobster rolls were certainly memorable, I was also impressed by other restaurants during my stay.

Among them, we dined at Scales, one of the restaurants in the same family as Fore Street, a James Beard-nominated restaurant that's one of the most hard-to-get-into restaurants in the city. I was beyond impressed by the quality of the food at both restaurants — I thought they were better than restaurants I've dined at in New York City in recent memory.

Standout dishes were the scallops from Scales, which were seared on the outside and paired perfectly with a fresh summer corn sauce, and the bourbon-brined half chicken from Fore Street, which was similarly packed with flavor.

I toured apartments and found they were still pretty expensive, though they were cheaper than what I would pay in New York City.

a staged living room inside The Casco apartment building in Portland, Maine
The apartments I viewed were pricer than I expected.Erin McDowell/Business Insider

While I was in Portland, I decided to view a few one-bedroom apartments to get a feel for how much it would cost to live there if I ever left New York.

I was surprised the apartments I toured were still out of my budget for a one-bedroom, even though Portland is a "second-tier" city. All of the apartments, which were in luxury buildings, cost around $2,500 a month.

While this is still too steep for me, I would have had access to incredible amenities like conference rooms, gyms, recreational areas, and even a swimming pool. These are all amenities that I could only dream about while living in New York City — apartments with those luxuries would cost much more.

According to Apartments.com, the average cost of renting a one-bedroom apartment in Portland in September 2024 is around $1,747 a month.

This is still roughly 10% higher than the national average of $1,564 a month, but New York City one-bedrooms are even more expensive. They run for an average of $3,867 a month, the site reported.

There didn't seem to be much public transportation, but most of the peninsula was walkable.

a trolley parked on a street in portland maine
There was a trolley bus that would take people on tours around Portland.Erin McDowell/Business Insider

Coming from New York City, where it's relatively easy to get around using the bus or subway, I was surprised that there wasn't much public transportation in Portland. There is a trolley and bus service that service downtown and other areas, but there is no underground or aboveground subway, and I decided to mostly walk or drive during my stay in the city.

However, the main peninsula and downtown area were pretty walkable, with plenty of well-lit sidewalks that felt safe, even at night. I found myself using Uber to get from my hotel to restaurants late at night, though, just to be safe.

The city had a real New England, seaside feel, which surprised me.

commercial street in portland maine
The city had a distinctly New England feel to it.Erin McDowell/Business Insider

One of the biggest things that surprised me was how "New England" the city felt. From the historic architecture to the piers and the sound of seagulls cawing overhead as I explored the city, it felt distinctly different from any other city I've visited.

Thanks to the tourist shops and seafood shacks, it felt like a beach town, but it also had a sophisticated feeling from the luxury stores and high-end restaurants that you often find in a major city.

The most tourist-oriented activity ended up being my favorite part of the trip.

the author wearing an orange smock and holding a lobster on a lobster boat in maine
I took a boat to see how lobstermen catch lobsters.Erin McDowell/Business Insider

When I travel, I usually try to avoid the tourist traps. Despite living in New York City, I rarely see Broadway shows or visit Times Square, and I haven't been to the Empire State Building since a high-school field trip.

I often find that doing typically touristy things, though often a necessary part of any first-time trip to a new place, is rarely my favorite part of a vacation.

However, when I booked a tour on a working lobster boat in Portland, I had no idea it would become my favorite memory from the trip.

I booked the tour through Lucky Catch Cruises, and for $50, I got to go out on the water, see how the lobstermen catch lobsters, learn how to do it myself, and even see Portland Head Light, the oldest lighthouse in Maine, from the water. The tour lasted an hour and a half and was an unforgettable part of my trip — and definitely worth the cost.

The city was a short drive to other popular towns in Maine, which broke up my trip nicely.

people walk down the street in kennebunkport maine
Kennebunkport, Maine.Erin McDowell/Business Insider

I was pleasantly surprised by how many quaint seaside towns were close to Portland, allowing me to easily take time away from the city.

One day, I took a quick excursion to Kennebunkport, Maine, which was filled with adorable souvenir shops, clothing stores, and a candy store where I could stock up on Maine's famous saltwater taffy.

It was nice to know that while the city of Portland has a lot to offer, there were also more quaint New England adventures to be had less than an hour's drive away.

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