Inside new glam Manchester restaurant with £30 pasta that's booked out for weeks
There's a new restaurant in town that wants to take diners back to the 'golden age'. Named Louis, the glamorous new spot will open its doors this weekend, and is billed as an ode to the classic New York restaurants which are often portrayed on the silver screen as a home away from home.
The third restaurant concept from the Permanently Unique Group, following success with high-end dining haunts Tattu and Fenix, Louis is a 'love letter' to America's grandest Italian-American restaurants. The hospitality brand was founded in Manchester in 2015 by brothers Adam and Drew Jones and spans sites in London, Manchester, Leeds, Edinburgh and Birmingham.
Taking up residence in the former Carluccio's site in Spinningfields, Louis officially launches this Friday (13 September) and is already booked up until the end of October, with many expectant customers intrigued by the new concept, and its no-phone policy.
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Aside from the promise of 'excellent' cooking from executive chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, the man behind Fenix, and Italian Chef Matteo D’Elia, who has worked previously at top London restaurants, the owners piqued interest earlier this year with their decision to encourage a 'no-phone' environment.
Owners have previously said on the matter, that the privacy and enjoyment of their guests, and 'curating an intimate atmosphere', will be their primary focus with the new opening. So it only seems fitting that when we went down to have a look around the new space, there were some terms and conditions to adhere to.
While we can give you a glimpse of the fresh pasta dishes like rigatoni with vodka and tomato, green lipped mussels with breadcrumbs and marbled pieces of sirloin steak dishes up at Louis, the interiors - to a certain extent - are under tight wraps, a move no doubt added to add an element of intrigue and exclusivity.
But to give you a small taste, the Fabled Studios-designed space certainly dials the glam up to a thousand. From the outside, interiors are hidden by a wraparound porch and red velvet drapes, but once inside you soon get a feel for it and the silver screen-inspired dining spot.
Nodding to the glamour and hedonism of 1950s New York, there's a Goodfellas feel to it with the intimate red velvet booths, marble detailing and mirrored walls. White linen tablecloths and tiny table lamps point towards the stage where swing bands are tasked with keeping guests entertained whilst they wait for their entrees, and the corridors are adorned with black and white photos of some familiar faces.
The bar is adorned with large chains and warm lighting and glimmering gold tones, while the toilets offer guests a 'darkened and moody' experience.
There's an almost nautical feel with the stage's scalloped, seashell-esque awning, but there's also a dotting of modern artworks - over £1 million worth - from names including Alec Monopoly and Mr Brainwash combining classical Italian styles with modern, New York influenced graffiti style, just to bring you back into the present for a moment.
And that's exactly what the no-phone policy taps into as well - being a little more present and part of the dining experience. A 'fedora' sticker will be applied to phones on arrival and diners will be asked to keep it on for the duration of their meal.
That said, there's sure to be some guests sneakily removing it to get a picture for social media - and what really can be done to stop that?
Phones aside, the menu is ambitious and draws from the chef's deep knowledge and understanding of how the Mediterranean influence has shaped Italian-American cuisine over the years.
Divided into several sections, the evening meal begins with a selection of Antipasti including crispy mac and cheese balls in marinara sauce (£16), fresh 250g burrata with heirloom tomatoes and fresh basil, and robata-grilled octopus, served with marinated vine tomatoes, sautéed baby potatoes, capers and parsley vinaigrette (£29).
As it moves into the second course, Louis' handmade pasta dishes take centre stage, including the signature Rigatoni Alla Vodka with crispy guanciale and parmigiano (£26) and Truffle Cacio E Pepe (£30). In the same section, you'll also find the Osso Buco Alla Milanese (£65), a slow-cooked veal shank cooked in a cast iron casserole dish and served with risotto.
Before the main event, there's also the Caesar salad from scratch (£24), and entrees such as chicken parmigiana (£31). Steak is taken seriously here. which may go some way to explaining the steeper prices, with Louis Wagyu Burger (£29) giving meat lovers a taste, while the New York Strip (£48 for 350 and £62 for 450g) and Centre Cut Tenderloin (£77 for 350g and £94 for 450g), elevate the options further.
Certainly in the pushing the boat out category though is the Tomahawk, the restaurant's showpiece, which comes in at £150 for 450g and served with mushroom gravy. Sides such as crispy potatoes in marinara sauce, sweet potato mash and mac & cheese come in at £10.
If you have space left, it's worth indulging in the dessert trolley (£12) too, a dining experience that harks back to the old-school glamour of 1950s New York dining establishments. Classics including apple pie, baked New York cheesecake and tiramisu will hit the spot for money, and there's also the option to add on a glass or two, or even bottle of Champagne, with the meaning featuring a number of Laurent-Perrier's best, from £19.50.
For those who fancy a cocktail to round off their dinner, Head of Beverage, Will Meredith, has created a 12-strong drinks programme which focuses on American classic cocktails. Divided into aperitifs, and dinner cocktails, standout creations include the Bloody Maria, Manhattan, and the PB&J Old Fashioned. Diners can cap it off with one of Louis' homemade Limoncellos, an American Bourbon or dram of whiskey too.
In keeping for a city known for its musical heritage, Louis will also be providing a platform for new talent as part of its weekly roster of performers. Its line-up will feature soul singers and pianists, as well as jazz quartets and full swing bands.
Louis is a dinner-only venue and will be open five nights a week, with a reservation only policy. It will open in Manchester’s Spinningfields on September 13, at 3 Hardman Square, Spinningfields, Manchester, M33EB. You can sign up to their mailing list here.