Inside Lostwithiel, the creative, arty town where the free parking is a big problem
For years Lostwithiel was renowned as the place to go for antique shops. Steeped in history, the town is now so much more than that. The ancient capital of Cornwall - it is at Restormel outside Lostwithiel that the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall traditionally stay when visiting the county - it is becoming a new type of capital nowadays, one where the arts and craft are not just alive and well, but thriving.
"I don't think there is any day when there isn't something going on in town," extolls Hayley Toms, owner of LilyBoo arts and craft shop and the driving force behind the Lost in Art trail festival, an event which encourages residents and visitors to explore the town through the arts. During the event on Saturday (September 14) some 18 art trail locations around the town were showcasing more than 36 local artists sharing their skills with visitors.
Hayley opened her shop on Fore Street some two years ago after being in Fowey for a while. A former nurse for 25 years, she decided she wanted to open her own arts and craft shop and run workshops in a town that would embrace it.
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"Lostwithiel has always been lovely. I used to visit a lot. Apart from the Coop, it's all independent traders here. I think we're richer for it as a town. There are more arty shops. We all do something different, but this is a place where you can be creative. I think it also bring people together.
"We don't have the peaks with the influx of tourists like St Ives and then nothing for months. It's busy all year round here. There is a huge local support in the town which is brilliant. We've also had some great feedback from people who have visited Lostwithiel for the first time."
The town is home to almost 3,000 people and has been growing slowly. While plagued like so many other towns and villages in Cornwall with second homes and holiday lets, especially in its historic heart, a new housing estate has been built on the edge of town complete with 47 affordable houses.
Lostwithiel boasts a gorgeous 12th century bridge over the River Fowey as well as a church dedicated to St Bartholomew from the Middle Ages and plenty of historic buildings that are enough in themselves to warrant a visit. The Museum of Lostwithiel, voted among the best small museums in the UK, organises history tours of the place. Look out for the Duchy Palace which takes up a huge chunk of the old town and attests to its links with the Duchy of Cornwall and the Monarchy.
The former stannary town is where the Battle of Lostwithiel took place during the First English Civil War in 1644. Parliamentarian forces were defeated by the Royalists. The Parliamentarians would go on to win the war but Cornwall remained under Royalist control until 1646.
"There has certainly been a shift towards the creative sector," Hayley added. "More galleries and arts and craft shops have opened. People don't realise how many talented creative people we have in town. People are looking increasingly at what they can do themselves or want to learn and attend a workshop. It's an escape that's good for their wellbeing."
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She added: "But it's not just arts stuff. There is everything you need here too. We have a great butcher and baker, a Coop, a convenience store, restaurants, takeaways, good pubs and free parking. But everyone will tell you, it's actually an issue."
While many towns would probably sell an old church and half a dozen grannies just to dream of free parking, it is ironically a problem in Losty. Most people we spoke to in the town agreed. Free parking is great but not having enough parking spaces and too many people taking advantage of the system isn't.
"It fills up very quickly," Hayley explained. "We've had customers say they drove away because they couldn't find anywhere to park. We do need more parking spaces."
Cornwall Councillor for Lostwithiel Colin Martin agreed about the parking issue but believes there are more spaces that people would know about if they drove a little bit farther away towards the river and the children's play park. The advantage being that you also get to enjoy a nice walk by the river when coming into town.
Some people have been known to park in town for days and commute to work by train out of county while the busy community hall, Scout club and other community groups as well as the two primary schools all mean there is a real battle for space among motorists.
"Long term I'd like to think that the land next the railway station could become a proper car park," Cllr Martin said. "Affordable housing is another issue in our town and we need to build more. We could do with a more regular bus service, but at least we are well served by train services as we're on the main line and successfully campaigned for more trains to stop in Lostwithiel."
Having more trains go through and stop in town has led to it being cut off at least 22 minutes for every hour when the railway crossing barriers come down. However, Network Rail has recently installed a temporary footbridge which the town hopes will make way for a permanent structure sooner rather than later.
"What attracted me to Lostwithiel in the first place," Cllr Martin added, "was the sense of community. It's a Goldilocks town. It's not too big and not too small. It's big enough that there is everything you need and something going on but not so big that you feel anonymous."
He had been in Bodmin at the time and became involved in the Lost In Song community choir. He ended up moving to Lostwithiel and standing as a local councillor. While well served by the A390 road to St Austell and Liskeard, and being not too far from Bodmin, better regular bus services to the big towns would not go amiss, especially for the students going to secondary school or college.
Vicki Carver left a career in finance in Bristol to open her craft and upcycled furniture shop called Choughs on Fore Street seven years ago. "I adore Cornwall," the Edinburgh-born shopkeeper said. "My family used to holiday in Cornwall and my ambition was to open my own craft shop. We came here. It doesn't compete with the coastal towns, which is obviously not as good from a business point of view, but we have a lovely town. Lostwithiel is an exceptional place. It's beautiful."
While the past seven years have generally been good, 2024 has been dire and Vicki believes it could get worse before it gets better. "There has been no footfall this year," she said. "It's the cost of living. It's cheaper to go abroad on holiday. I hope we get a good Christmas and things improve next year."
Putting Lostwithiel on the map with events such was Lost In Art, LostFest or Dickensian in December, which is an occasion for the whole community to dress up in period clothes and promote the town in a quirky way, is more important than ever for the 125 traders in the local business group.
Emma Jesshop has had the Bellamama Deli for nearly seven years but has been Cornwall for 16 years. Originally from Berkshire, she said: "We're interested in providing quality food and working with local producers. I love food and I like baking. Business has been good. We have a lot of loyal local customers who have been very supportive.
"I think people love this town and want to support it and the events that are put on. Yes parking is probably our biggest challenge but this is a lovely little town with plenty of independent shops, great history, great walks and historic buildings. We're working to get people to realise that and turn off from the A390."
Elaine Foster-Gandey is a recent newcomer to Lostwithiel, having moved in a mere six weeks ago. A performance artist and inclusive art practitioner, she's using her space at Elaine Foster-Gandey Art for other artists to exhibit their work. She's also organised a catwalk-style presentation with models aged 14 to 85, for the Lost in Art event.
She said that her previous experience of Cornwall was mainly around Torpoint and Looe. "I had never seen Lostwithiel before," Elaine said. "It was like a veil had parted and we were allowed in. It feels like that here. People don't realise that there is this town with all this amazing stuff.
"It's been amazing so far. I can't believe how friendly people are here. In London or other big places people are closed to others. 'It's my space, don't tread on me'. But here people have opened their arms to me. It's been enlightening and exciting."
Richard Du Pille has been a chef in Cornish kitchens for years. He spent 10 years at Duchy Nursery up the road, which was visited by Prince Williams in July last year to officially open the new Orangery restaurant, but when his sister told him her shop tenant didn't want to renew the lease, he thought it was too good to be true. he jumped at the occasion and two years ago he opened Mess Hall Cafe on Fore Street.
Helped with old tables and chairs and other equipment by St Austell Brewery, for which he was working at the time, Richard's hard work to go it alone and be his own boss has certainly paid off. He now employs nine full and part-time staff and is looking to take on a few more so he can finally enjoy not working seven days a week.
"For years, Lostwithiel used to think of itself as an overflow to Fowey but it has become more popular in its own right. People are looking for things to do that are different so they have now discovered us. We have great links to Fowey, we're close to Eden Project so it helps. Visitors might spend the morning on the beach then they'll come here.
"So many people who come here don't realise what we have. It's very picturesque. The river is safe enough for kids to play in it. It's just a sweet little place."
To check out what the town has to offer, visit its website at https://www.lostwithiel.org.uk/
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