Jules, Putney: Neighbourhood conviviality by the river

Considering most people think of Putney as a part of central London, it’s surprising how much of a local vibe the area has — sometimes for better, sometimes for worse.

There’s a predominance of chains of the sort you’d expect in the home counties not the capital, but rubbing shoulders with them you’ll find some independent gems which are perfect for their location.

Jules, a recently launched brasserie just off the High Street is a prime example of the latter.

It’s a stylish but simple place, with a bare wood floor, metal bar and lights made from hanging whisky bottles, while large windows up front let the light pour in.

The menu is also a sunny affair, taking its lead from Spain but allowing Italian, Asian and British influences to filter through.

Highlights include a smoked sardine fillet with a vibrant mango salsa, meltingly tender beef cheek in a rich gravy served with cubes of cheesy polenta, and juicy balls of morcilla served with a slightly tart apple sauce.

Proving that sometimes it’s hard to beat classics, the winning dish by some distance on our visit was a plate of warm, oozing Iberico ham croquetas. We’d suggest washing them down with a couple of glasses of wine or a cocktail — we tried an exemplary Negroni — and then ordering more. And perhaps more again. And the best bit is that Jules is the kind of place where you feel able to do exactly that.

Locals should count themselves lucky, because their new neighbour offers good food, drinks and prices in a fantastically convivial setting.

Jules, Putney: The lowdown

Final flavour: A spot of Spanish sun by the river.

At what cost? Small plates from £4.95 to £8.95.

Visit if you like: Salt Yard, Bar Esteban, Boqueria.

Find it: 5 Lacy Road, SW15 1NH; julesputney.co.uk.