Kurhotel Skodsborg, Denmark - hotel review

A majestic enclave sitting north of Copenhagen on the Oresund (the strait separating Denmark and Sweden), Kurhotel Skodsborg lies in grounds where Danish kings used to spear deer on weekends. Opened as a sanatorium in the 19th century, in 2013 it was renovated into a tasteful escape, offering high-end rooms and outlandish spa treatments against a naturally beautiful Danish backdrop.

The SaunaGus is the signature treatment — a strange health routine initially used as a cure for depression in its sanatorium days. Hardy guests are steamed in a sauna and whipped with scalding towels before rushing out to leap into almost-freezing water, then heading back into the steam. Honestly, I felt elated afterwards.

The spa hotel (kur means spa) now sits in what’s known as the “Chelsea of Copenhagen”, 20 minutes from the centre — but the only reminder of the prime location is the tarmac road running between the site and its jetty.

The design is elegant but understated. Henning Larsen, who designed the Copenhagen opera house, was involved. Sinkable-into sofas are arranged behind small tables in all-day dining area The Lobby so that its open-plan space feels private. There are weekly recitals on the grand piano. There’s a posh restaurant, The Restaurant by Kroun, as well as a brasserie for simpler fare.

Eating seeded paleo bread, immersing myself in daily yoga, swimming and inhaling in a “salt cave” made me believe a healthier, more wholesome way of life is possible.

Rooms are a calming palette of neutrals, with high-ceilinged bathrooms hiding huge standalone tubs. No detail is forgotten, down to hot-water bottles placed in beds for winter guests and waterproof designer handbags to take to the spa. It would be easy to stay inside but there are nearly 1,000 acres of the deer-filled forest to the back of the complex (you can rent a bike). Its clean air and sunlit pines stay with you on the unwilling drive back to reality.

I left after three days feeling happier, lighter and ready to face life. And with a (short-lasting) resolve to eat less processed sugar.

Kurhotel Skodsborg, Strandvej 139,Skodsborg (0045 45 58 58 00; skodsborg.dk)

Doubles from 1625Kr (£195), B&B

Rooms: ★★★★

Service: ★★★★

Value: ★★★