Yahoo News Lina in Piazza is a little slice of Genova
The much-loved Lina Stores delicatessen was first established in bombed-out Soho at the height of WW2. It seems strangely appropriate that its latest venture has just launched during another period of international upheaval, perfectly timed to cheer London up again.
Taking over a somewhat underused open space a stone’s throw from the bustle of Granary Square, Lina in Piazza brings a taste of la dolce vita to those of us who have been obliged to staycation. On a sunny July evening, a few days after it launched, we found every table under its mint-green umbrella full, and the noise of exuberant chat mingled on the air with an easy-listening Italian soundtrack that made us feel we had been wafted straight to Portofino.
The menu is short but perfectly formed, starting with the elegant aperitivi. My wild oregano-infused limoncello spritz was deceptively innocent in appearance and refreshing to taste, but certainly packed a punch.
All the antipasti sounded so delicious we found ourselves unable to choose, so opted for them all: a rich buffalo-milk stracciatella with heirloom tomatoes and ‘carta di musica’ crackers; pale pink swathes of prosciutto topped with slices of punchy apple mostarda; and the freshest baby kale and spinach salad, drizzled with truffle and topped with parmesan.
The main-course pasta dishes are tapas-size and start at £7, which means you can indulge in a couple if you feel so inclined. Obviously, the 30-egg-yolk tagliolini with black truffle and butter was a must; but so, too, was the linguini with fresh crab and datterini tomatoes, so I didn’t hold back. Meanwhile, my husband raved over his braised lamb rigatoni, which was elevated by a grassy, aromatic gremolata that cut through the richness of the meat.
After all that, we had no room for desserts; nevertheless, somehow, a tangy Amalfi lemon budino (a sweet custard-style pudding) with crème fraîche was consumed, alongside a heavenly pistachio and olive oil cake. The service was as delightful and friendly as the food. Perhaps, after all, there is something to be said for taking a holiday at home.
Lina in Piazza, 20 Stable St, London N1.
