Advertisement

How London's top restaurants soundtrack their spaces

Spinning plates: Spiritland in Kings Cross pairs a world-beating soundsystem with elevated bar snacks
Spinning plates: Spiritland in Kings Cross pairs a world-beating soundsystem with elevated bar snacks

London's hyper-competitive restaurant scene makes it one of the world's toughest cities to launch a new venture.

With business rates up and footfall down, a winning formula is worth its weight in gold and although first-rate food is inevitably the focus, other factors can also affect a restaurant's success. Atmosphere is frequently cited in customer surveys as second only to food in an enjoyable restaurant visit and getting the vibe right is crucial.

So how to soundtrack a restaurant? Install a piano? Employ a DJ? Put your faith in Spotify Discover?

We spoke to three of London's liveliest venues to ask how they create atmosphere

Ellory, Hackney

"Music in restaurants is usually terrible, so getting that right was the first order of business," says Ed Thaw, owner of high-end Hackney restaurant Ellory, who makes full use of the 2,500 vinyls on display behind the bar to soundtrack the sleek space by Netil Market. Ellory's menu of small plates focuses on British and European food and picked up a Michelin star in 2016, with Thaw describing its atmosphere is "that glorious intangible thing" that he was keen to put his mark on.

"Everyone knows when the vibe is right. Customers and staff bounce off each other," he says. "No two days are the same – we’ll pull out a stack of records to get us through the evening but that could well change if the profile of the customers change. Some nights people seem more up for it while others there are more relaxed."

According to Thaw, restraint is a feature of both great music and food and he says there's a constant need to consider his audience. " I look at it like a DJ. The best ones read the room and give it what it need," he says. "If it’s rainy we’ll play more maudlin music. If it’s sunny, something more uplifting. When we get it right it makes a massive difference to the vibe of the restaurant. Like an amazing meal, you can create something extraordinary if you think about it."

Go for the: £45 chef's choice set menu for a selection of the menu's best bits.

Stay for the: Blend of genres from jazz and hip-hop through to Afrobeat, soul, pop and R&B.

1 Westgate Street, E8 3RL; www.ellorylondon.com

Joe Allen, Covent Garden

Despite relocating around the corner from its original site last year (thanks to Robert De Niro's local property magnate aspirations), Joe Allen's latest incarnation succeeds in retaining the original's charisma. Notwithstanding the move, it's been serving up a hearty menu of American-influenced comfort food – think weighty burgers, chicken parmigiana and lobster rolls – to Covent Garden's theatre-going crowd for 40 years and, for owner Tim Healy, atmosphere is everything. "You're in theatreland as soon you walk through the door, with West End musical posters hanging on the walls," he says. "Being a theatrical love in, the soundtrack had to be show tunes."

During the day, Healy sets more of a New York brasserie vibe with classical and jazz accompanying breakfast and lunch before a full Broadway homage begins at dinner, with a roster of live pianists often take requests from diners. According to Healy, if the music relaxes you, you are more engaged with the food. "Music adds to the whole experience," he says. "It should be a complement in the background; audible but not intrusive; giving a spring in your step but not necessarily bringing on a toe tap."

With popular go-tos including tracks by Nina Simone, Dean Martin, West Side Story, Evita, Guys and Dolls, Miss Saigon, Joe Allencertainly succeeds in playing to a more than willing crowd.

Go for the: Steak frites or the lobster brioche roll.

Stay for the: Broadway and West End classics and cool jazz from Eartha Kitt to Miles Davis.

2 Burleigh Street,​ WC2E 7PX; www.joeallen.co.uk

Spiritland, Kings Cross

Following a successful spell at the Merchants Tavern in Shoreditch, Spiritland – which pitches itself as a space in between a bar, restaurant and club – has established itself in Kings Cross as one of London's most pioneering concepts. A bespoke soundsystem, which artistic director Paul Noble claims is one of the world's best, lies at the centre of that, with its output drawing crowds not from across London and beyond. "Music is the reason we're here – everything revolves around it," says Noble. "We place music on a pedestal rather than in the background."

During the week, acclaimed industry figures play a vivid blend of genres that range from the mainstream to the experimental while a series of events, including talks, whisky tastings and record label launches make up an alluring schedule for music fans. And although sound quality is such a central element to Spiritland's ethos, Noble's team has succeeded in adding an equally high-end menu of elevated bar snacks, small plates and a brunch menu at the weekend, which Noble says leads to a shift in programming. "We often have families and people nursing hangovers so we tend of play more accessible music," he says. " We've got a satisfying menu accompanied by satisfying sounds... and lots of Bloody Maries."

Go for the: Eclectic roster of DJs that in the past has included the likes of Jarvis Cocker, Hot Chip and Andrew Wetherall.

Stay for the: Charcuterie plates, salt beef sandwiches and homemade pasta.

9 - 10 Stable St, Kings Cross, N1C 4AB; www.spiritland.com