The London borough with hardly any gardens where kids are still taught to grow and cook their own food

On a sunny day in Hackney - an area full of houses - a secret garden thrives on the site of a primary school. Here, children grow fruits and vegetables while learning to cook with fresh, homegrown ingredients.

The Hackney School of Food, established at Mandeville Primary School, has transformed an unused caretaker’s house into a unique cooking school. Seasonal classes teach everything from bread and salads to Turkish dishes and sushi, using produce grown in their own garden.

Tom Walker, 39, the Head Food Educator at the school, said: “When kids grow and cook their own food, they gain confidence and make healthier choices. It’s about ownership, from ‘seed to spoon.’”

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The Hackney School of Food was set up in March 2020 by the LEAP Federation of Schools and Chefs in Schools charity. Their approach encourages children to try new flavours without pressure, often surprising themselves with what they enjoy.

Reception students are now working on crafting houses for insects
Reception students are now working on crafting houses for insects -Credit:MyLondon

Tom added: “We at the School of Food don’t say ‘you must eat this because it’s going to go to waste’; we just say ‘try it.’ And then, because the pressure's off, they try the ‘green thing,’ and they go, ‘wow, I didn’t realise salad could taste spicy or sour.’”

The project’s ethos centres on the unifying power of food. They offer classes to people of all ages, from children at reception to adult community classes, where they’ve had 80 year olds coming in to learn new skills or re-learn old skills.

The garden is extensive and has a lot of different areas that provide learning opportunities for kids
The garden is extensive and has a lot of different areas that provide learning opportunities for kids -Credit:MyLondon

The kitchen is filled with light, and it has ten height-adjustable workstations, a teaching station, and a lot of space for the teacher to go around. Dried ingredients by the windows connect participants with the origins of their meals.

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Outside, the garden offers a diverse range of produce. Raised beds of vegetables, herb patches, a greenhouse, chickens, and even beehives create a dynamic environment for learning. There’s also a firepit and wooded area that provide opportunities for outdoor cooking classes.

When I visited the school, Stoke Newington students were making focaccia. I was really impressed by their excitement as they kneaded dough and picked fresh rosemary from the garden to give flavour to their culinary creations.

The kitchen space is wide and modern
The kitchen space is wide and modern -Credit:MyLondon

Now, the school is expanding with plans for a new Garden Room. This flexible space will open directly into the garden and host community events, supper clubs, and additional lessons. Construction has begun, but they still need £13,000 for furniture and essential equipment.

For now, the Hackney School of Food organises classes for schools and community groups to book. But Tom says that with the Garden Room, they would be able to expand.

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He added: “The Garden Room will allow us to host more groups and provide a dedicated area for garden lessons. It’s about creating a true community hub.”

To support their efforts, visit their GoFundMe page. You can find Hackney School of Food at Oswald St, Lower Clapton, London E5 0BT.