London Fashion Week 2018 trend roundup: from cocktail corduroy to grandad glamour

1. Old school, new cool

On Saturday night Burberry bid a fond farewell to its designer of 17 years, Christopher Bailey. But rather than deliver a bumper edition of his greatest hits during his mammoth term, true to form Bailey’s swansong sought to safeguard the brand’s future success.

“I wanted it to be a little bit reflective of Burberry’s past and our present but I’m also really excited for the next moment of this company,” said Bailey after the show.

The result was an amalgamation of a new rainbow check — created in support of three LGBT charities — with re-issued pieces from the brand’s iconic archive, including a return of the original Burberrys of London logo which was long thought to be lost to the back rooms of thrift shops.

Graffiti-branded puffer jackets, sequin tulle skirts teamed with fleece hoodies and classic check trackies were just a handful of the other highlights in a show closed by Bailey’s poster girl Cara Delevingne.

Following an extended and well-deserved standing ovation, many fashion fans and friends toasted Bailey’s tenure in the west London warehouse to a backdrop of disco anthems, while others rushed to be first in the queue to shop his last hurrah straight off the catwalk, with Farfetch promising “show-to-door” central London deliveries in just 90 minutes.

Bailey is yet to reveal what the future holds for him but he’s done his bit to ensure Burberry’s is certainly looking bright.

2. Cocktail Corduroy

Jumbo-cord lovers can rejoice, because this current popular trend is going nowhere. As well as being seen on the best-dressed editors on the front row, it popped up all over the catwalk, too. Forget the Nineties-style slightly ironic Jarvis Cocker connotations, though, because next season it’s getting a serious evening makeover. Dressy corduroy made an appearance at Erdem, Emilia Wickstead and Roland Mouret, whose pink creations included a slinky pencil skirt worthy of a trip to The Ritz.

3. Suits new

If you were wondering how you will be wearing your trouser suit this autumn, we have the answer: go girly. At Simone Rocha, classic black and grey tailoring was given an extreme feminine touch, with large bows sewn on the knees and ankles of trousers, and ruffles and ribbons in the place of shoulder pads. Taking it a step further was a full floral print two-piece (with matching bag, naturally) and a tinsel-trimmed frock thrown casually over a city-style suit. Desk-to-date dressing never looked so good.

4. The scarf skirt

It’s amazing how much you can do with a silk scarf — just head to YouTube for endless tuitions — but Toga was a masterclass in reimagining this retro classic for more than just your head or your neck. Tailored blazers had scarves spliced in as sleeves, while modest high-neck, long-sleeve tops featured peek-a-boo sections to display the silk designs. Skirts were particularly successful; scarves appeared as parts of pleats or through cut-out sections with a tell-tale corner of ‘kerchief hanging down below the hem.

5. Get stoned

At New York Fashion Week the Olsen twins handed out healing crystals during their show for The Row. In London, the status of semi-precious stones as fashion’s cult accessory du jour was cemented at Roksanda, who harnessed the power of gemstones as brooches on blankets — clasped close to models’ hearts — and studded on belts, while single amethyst earrings swung elegantly from lobes. EM

6. The joy of sex

“I have never shied away from sex in the collections — and this one is no different,” said Kane of his latest collection, which began with the study of illustrations from the iconic Seventies’ manual The Joy of Sex. Red lingerie-lace dresses, peek-a-boo slashed trousers and bondage-leather jackets were just some of the examples of the way sex can still sell in 2018, while zip knits and split skirts could be fastened — or unfastened — to your pleasure.

7. Dual-personality pants

Anyone who’s ever suffered from wardrobe indecision will love this trend from sequin specialist Halpern, because you essentially get two pairs of trousers for the price of one (NB, the trousers should be flared, even if it’s a tiny boot-kick). Zebra print on your right leg and some jazzy disco vibes on the left, for instance, is an ideal situation to be in. Alternatively, stick to some plain sparkle in tangerine and grey and whack a massive bow on your hip. Because why not?

8. Tinsel town

For those who mourn the absence of Christmas 11 months of the year, London Fashion Week brings glad tidings in the form of tinsel designed to be worn outside of the acceptable confines of the festive season. At Ports 1961’s refreshingly wearable offering, the sparkly stuff was strewn onto knitted co-ords. At Simone Rocha, strands were woven onto tulle in a check pattern. Though it’s perhaps best to save the baubles and fairy lights until December.

9. Paisley park

In a show littered with easy dresses and utility wear, this was one of Jonathan Anderson’s most commerical collections to date — perhaps the designer’s ongoing collaboration with practical high street giant Uniqlo has rubbed off. While much of the colour palette followed suit — navy, beige and olive — it was a paisley print that really stood out. Tops featuring the classic swirly design were paired with handkerchief midi skirts trimmed with rainbow stripes. Get ready to embrace it next season; paisley was also seen at Ports 1961.

10. Grandad glamour

Step away from the dad trainers and retire your mom jeans — those keen to keep ahead of the curve need to seek advice from the next generation up to inform their AW18 muse. At Erdem — a designer with form when it comes to looking to the past to predict the future — granddad knits were modernised with marabou feather sleeves and teamed with show-stopping sequin skirts. We’re not sure it will fit Meghan Markle’s brief come May 19 but it ticks all the boxes as far as fashion folk are concerned.

11. Strike a cord

“Grow up” proclaimed Henry Holland’s show notes. And he has. In his latest collection it wasn’t the standard party-girl-dressed-as-a-pirate/cowgirl/mermaid vibe we’ve come to know and love, but an edit of 23 polished building blocks to sharpen up the act of his long-standing fanbase. “We tried to take a step back from seasonal narratives,” said Holland backstage. “This was about looking at wardrobe staples and adding our DNA.” Our pick? A pinstripe suit finished with a bungee cord belt to match the Grenson boots. Spot. On.

12. Sofa chic

Luxe loungewear is big business. But the capital’s most style-conscious cashmere tracksuit-wearing couch potatoes now have a new obsession to cosy up to courtesy of Mary Katrantzou’s chesterfield bombers. In a collection which called upon the designer’s past life studying textiles for interiors, tile prints, tapestry embroidery and even the odd top shaped like a lampshade found a home on the catwalk, though it was her settee-chic leather jackets — created in collaboration with Moose Knuckles Canada — which proved a lounge-lover’s dream.

13. Split knits

In a collection inspired by eco-feminists and saving the environment, it made sense that alongside “seaweed shoes” (sandals adorned with green sheepskin) was knitwear that looked like it could have been recycled from several different jumpers. Argyle sat beautifully alongside cable knits in tank tops with unfinished edges and looked especially effective when worn over long silk dresses.