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London Fashion Week: Highlights from the Fall-Winter 2024 runways

Since its inaugural season in 1984, London has been known as the spirited, scrappy birthplace of now-world renowned designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Perhaps fittingly in London Fashion Week’s 40th year, there was palpable energy surrounding the budding British talent populating the schedule, which drew to a close on Tuesday.

It was a smorgasbord of the weird and wonderful at the Central Saint Martins Masters degree show on Friday. Menswear design student Jonathon Ferris gave on-lookers a “Being John Malkovich” moment, when he sent runway models out in identical masks in his likeness. A few moments later, during Maximilian Raynor’s graduate collection reveal, a militant, fallen angel with bells woven into his knitted wingspan jingled down the runway. Harris Reed, who has unofficially claimed the opening spot on the schedule, served whiskey cocktails to a growing crowd of fans within the hallowed halls of the Tate Britain. The collection was inspired by Victoriana and, more specifically, 19th-century shadow puppets.

Nostalgia was a common reference point this season, too, though interpreted in a myriad of ways. Not one, but two Gen Z designers — Conner Ives and Sinead Gorey — used technological relics of the Apple empire to transport viewers to a different time. Ives, with his final look featuring an iPod nano and wired headphones, while Gorey repurposed iPod shuffles as hair clips. Other designers went further back in time. Erdem’s latest season — which was inspired by the 20th century American-Greek soprano, Maria Callas — conjured images of antiquated elegance: Elbow gloves, cocktail dresses with theatrical scarf drapes, and opera wraps.

Coiled silver wigs were a mainstay at the JW Anderson show. - JW Anderson
Coiled silver wigs were a mainstay at the JW Anderson show. - JW Anderson

Meanwhile, London Fashion Week veteran Jonathan Anderson celebrated the rise of nostalgia by styling the models in his show in silver permed wigs, in reference to a bygone era of British life where nosy neighbors chatted over laundry lines and made their own clothes. He told journalists after the show that he was excited that younger people are discovering nostalgia. “Suddenly a song from 50 years ago can become number one,” he said. “And that’s exciting.”

Guests at the Burberry show were also taken back in time to the 2000s. The late Amy Winehouse’s crooning voice echoed throughout the purpose-built tent in East London’s Victoria Park while a number of millennial models including Lily Cole and Agyness Deyn walked the runway.

Cowboycore

The pervasive Western wear trend roped in a few of London’s designers this season. Cowboy hats came in multiple flavors at the Edward Crutchley show: Black, white, or handcrafted from a woven Moroccan wall-hanging, courtesy of Stephen Jones’ millinery. At Molly Goddard’s show over the weekend, Western-themed shirts and flat leather cowboy boots punctuated the designer’s signature frothy tulle dresses. “The whole Western thing seems to be everywhere at the moment,” Goddard told British Vogue, “but my point of view is probably quite different from people like Beyoncé’s.”

Molly Goddard offered her own twist on the growing cowboycore trend with Western sweatshirts and tall boots. - Ben Broomfield
Molly Goddard offered her own twist on the growing cowboycore trend with Western sweatshirts and tall boots. - Ben Broomfield
Fashion's penchant for ranch-inspired styles show no sign of stopping. - Ben Broomfield
Fashion's penchant for ranch-inspired styles show no sign of stopping. - Ben Broomfield

Faux fur

Fleecy, fuzzy or fine: Faux fur was a key textile on the London runways. Simone Rocha called her show the final part of a triptych of collections, beginning with her Spring-Summer collection shown in September, a guest slot designing for Jean Paul Gaultier couture in Paris last month, and now her latest Fall-Winter 2024 line. According to the show notes, “The Wake” explored the mourning dress of Queen Victoria and featured a flood of fake fur. There was no end to its usage, from coats and extra large mittens to fur-trimmed tulle capes, shoes, or even earrings.

Similarly, at Conner Ives, faux fur shawls were dressed down with tank tops and jeans, while Precious Lee walked the runway in a detached hood in the fabric, tied wholesomely under her chin. Sinead Gorey, on the other hand, created winter lingerie by adorning corsets and bras with tufts of dyed polyester fur.

At Conner Ives, faux fur shawls and hoods brought a touch of winter glamour to the collection. - Ik Aldama
At Conner Ives, faux fur shawls and hoods brought a touch of winter glamour to the collection. - Ik Aldama

High fashion hiking

Form and function made a rare collision this season, particularly for those keen on the great outdoors. Emerging designer Johanna Parv designed with the intention of covering her wearer “for all eventualities, around the clock,” according to the collection notes. Parv gave special consideration to the inner-city cyclist, creating tops that can be stretched over a backpack, or an insulated mini-skirt “designed to keep the wearer’s bum warm on the saddle.”

At Burberry, designer Daniel Lee had the wilds of the British isles on his mind when designing his third collection for the brand which featured an abundance of outerwear made in thick, cozy fabrics including fleecy wool, shearling and moleskin.

Johanna Parv created shirts that could be stretched over backpacks, protecting walkers, cyclists or even hikers from the outdoor elements. - Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images
Johanna Parv created shirts that could be stretched over backpacks, protecting walkers, cyclists or even hikers from the outdoor elements. - Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

Raincoats and anoraks were reinvented by Irish designer Robyn Lynch, who this season collaborated with 1970s athleisure brand C.P. Company. Lynch upcycled outerwear from the past collections by the Italian sportswear label, reimagining silhouettes and adding layers of knitwear. In one look, the flowing, romantic shape of a white rain poncho is reminiscent of an Elizabethan blackwork shirt. At Simone Rocha, too, a nylon windbreaker with a draw-string toggle hood is transformed into a voluminous ball gown and cinched at the waist with an embellished waspie corset; while another is made entirely sheer.

A raincoat becomes the belle of the ball at Simone Rocha. - Ben Broomfield/Ben Broomfield @photobenphoto
A raincoat becomes the belle of the ball at Simone Rocha. - Ben Broomfield/Ben Broomfield @photobenphoto
Robyn Lynch gave the white anorak a romantic silhouette during her Fall-Winter 2024 show. - Chris Yates
Robyn Lynch gave the white anorak a romantic silhouette during her Fall-Winter 2024 show. - Chris Yates
Collaborating with '70s sportswear brand C.P. Company, she breathed new life into old garments. - Chris Yates
Collaborating with '70s sportswear brand C.P. Company, she breathed new life into old garments. - Chris Yates
Fashion royalty Naomi Campell starred in Burberry's latest runway show in London. - Joe Maher/Getty Images
Fashion royalty Naomi Campell starred in Burberry's latest runway show in London. - Joe Maher/Getty Images
The outdoors were clearly on Daniel Lee's mind, too, as he fashioned cozy outwear for staying warm. - Filippo Fior
The outdoors were clearly on Daniel Lee's mind, too, as he fashioned cozy outwear for staying warm. - Filippo Fior
High-collared shearling jackets were finished with horsebit buckles and hardware. - Burberry
High-collared shearling jackets were finished with horsebit buckles and hardware. - Burberry
Erdem was a vision of mid-20th century elegance. - Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
Erdem was a vision of mid-20th century elegance. - Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
Staged in the British Museum, the Erdem show featured dresses with built-in scarf drapes. - Jason Lloyd Evans
Staged in the British Museum, the Erdem show featured dresses with built-in scarf drapes. - Jason Lloyd Evans
Elbow gloves and reimagined opera coats were everywhere on Erdem's runway. -  Jason Lloyd Evans
Elbow gloves and reimagined opera coats were everywhere on Erdem's runway. - Jason Lloyd Evans
Harris Reed's collection, titled "Shadow Puppets," was inspired by the 19th century art form. - Marc Hibbert
Harris Reed's collection, titled "Shadow Puppets," was inspired by the 19th century art form. - Marc Hibbert
Jonathan Anderson's collection harked back to the 1950's housewife, throwing on what is closest to hang clothes out on the washing line. - JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson's collection harked back to the 1950's housewife, throwing on what is closest to hang clothes out on the washing line. - JW Anderson
“We wanted to do something a bit psychological this time,” Anderson said. “The idea of the grotesque and the pragmatic.” - JW Anderson
“We wanted to do something a bit psychological this time,” Anderson said. “The idea of the grotesque and the pragmatic.” - JW Anderson
Faux fur was a major theme at the Simone Rocha show, where patches were used to alter the silhouette like hip or shoulder pads. - Ben Broomfield
Faux fur was a major theme at the Simone Rocha show, where patches were used to alter the silhouette like hip or shoulder pads. - Ben Broomfield
The textile was also used in a more classic, archetypal way — with opulent, robe-style coats. - Ben Broomfield
The textile was also used in a more classic, archetypal way — with opulent, robe-style coats. - Ben Broomfield
Sinead Gorey recontextualized the iPod Shuffle as a hair clip. - Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images
Sinead Gorey recontextualized the iPod Shuffle as a hair clip. - Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images
Old school music technology made another appearance at the Conner Ives show, in a closing look that featured embroidered headphones. - Ik Aldama
Old school music technology made another appearance at the Conner Ives show, in a closing look that featured embroidered headphones. - Ik Aldama
Precious Lee walked in a detatchable fur hood. - Ik Aldama
Precious Lee walked in a detatchable fur hood. - Ik Aldama
Edward Crutchley was inspired by cultures across the world, and repurposed woven tapestries into skirts, jackets and cowboy hats. - Maja Smiejkowska
Edward Crutchley was inspired by cultures across the world, and repurposed woven tapestries into skirts, jackets and cowboy hats. - Maja Smiejkowska
Staged in a Gothic Revival church in East London, Dilara Findikoglu's show was a twisted fantasy. - Dilara Findikoglu
Staged in a Gothic Revival church in East London, Dilara Findikoglu's show was a twisted fantasy. - Dilara Findikoglu
Skirts were structurall designed to appear permanently blown at Findikoglu's Fall-Winter 2024 show. - Dilara Findikoglu
Skirts were structurall designed to appear permanently blown at Findikoglu's Fall-Winter 2024 show. - Dilara Findikoglu
While one of the closing looks featured a wig entirely made of silver keys. - Dilara Findikoglu
While one of the closing looks featured a wig entirely made of silver keys. - Dilara Findikoglu
Latex, tulle and Margiela-style face masks were abundant in Findikoglu's "Femme Vortex." - Dilara Findikoglu
Latex, tulle and Margiela-style face masks were abundant in Findikoglu's "Femme Vortex." - Dilara Findikoglu
Sinead O'Dwyer, whose collection was inspired by a not-so-appropriate take on office wear, led the charge on diverse casting this season. - Chris Yates
Sinead O'Dwyer, whose collection was inspired by a not-so-appropriate take on office wear, led the charge on diverse casting this season. - Chris Yates
Lottie Moss, Kate Moss's half-sister, made an appearance on the Sinead O'Dwyer runway. - Chris Yates
Lottie Moss, Kate Moss's half-sister, made an appearance on the Sinead O'Dwyer runway. - Chris Yates
Model on the runway at Molly Goddard RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at the Cecil Sharp House on February 17, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images) - Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
Model on the runway at Molly Goddard RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at the Cecil Sharp House on February 17, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images) - Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
Molly Goddard's frilly, feminine creations were given a new edge in moodier colors like maroon and black. - Ben Broomfield
Molly Goddard's frilly, feminine creations were given a new edge in moodier colors like maroon and black. - Ben Broomfield
Ahluwalia's collection drew from old Indian and Nigeria folklore and fairytales. - Ahluwalia
Ahluwalia's collection drew from old Indian and Nigeria folklore and fairytales. - Ahluwalia
The label also collaborated with Levi's this season to create unique, reworked denim pieces. - Ahluwalia
The label also collaborated with Levi's this season to create unique, reworked denim pieces. - Ahluwalia
Bright, printed designs in Ahluwalia's collection reference the body painting technique specific to the Igbo people in Nigeria. - Matthew Aland
Bright, printed designs in Ahluwalia's collection reference the body painting technique specific to the Igbo people in Nigeria. - Matthew Aland

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