The 'lost Welsh village' where only ancient ruined church remains standing

The lost village of Lancaut
-Credit: (Image: John Myers)


Anyone stumbling across Lancaut Nature Reserve, just over the River Wye might never assume that it used to be home to an old village, as barely anything remains. You can find the deserted village of Lancaut (Llan Cewydd in Welsh) approximately a mile north of Chepstow, and now on the English side of the River Wye.

The only thing which serve as a reminder of the centuries of people who lived, farmed, fished and worshipped here is ruins of St James Church, which you can now walk inside to get a feel for what it was like. Described by Wye Vallley National Landscape as "quite literally, a lost place", Lancaut is definitely a unique location. The old ruined church was originally dedicated to a pre-congregational saint of Wales in the 6th century, Saint Cewydd, who was known as the Welsh 'Rain Saint', like Medard in France and Swithin in England.

Very little is known of his life due to a lack of records in the early Dark Ages in Wales, but some believe he may have been a monk who helped spread Christianity inland along the Wye from the centre of religious learning at Llancarfon in the Vale of Glamorgan. For the latest Welsh news delivered to your inbox sign up to our newsletter

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Additionally, it is also thought that Christianity may have expanded down the Wye from Archenfield (in Herefordshire), which had been a stronghold of Celtic Christianity since Roman times. It was fairly common for these kind of churches to be placed in remote spots near water and a day's walk apart according to Wye Valley National Landscape, and Lancaut is nearly completely surrounded by the River Wye, which would have made it perfectly positioned.

It was also used as a fort known as Spital Meend as long ago as the Iron Age, with limestone quarried for agriculture and construction as well as fish like salmon which were trapped in weirs during Medieval times. It is also thought that a leper colony was once situated here, an idea that was supported by the presence of medicinal plants near the church.

Historical references suggest there may have been an early monastic community here, but recent archaeological investigations have raised more questions than answers, although numerous burials have been identified around the church. So what happened to Lancaut?

You can find the deserted village of Lancaut approximately a mile north of Chepstow, on English side of the River Wye
You can find the deserted village of Lancaut approximately a mile north of Chepstow, on English side of the River Wye -Credit:John Myers
The lost village has very few remains, but seeing what is left of it is definitely a unique experience
The lost village has very few remains, but seeing what is left of it is definitely a unique experience -Credit:John Myers
Lancaut is enclosed by some striking limestone cliffs
Lancaut is enclosed by some striking limestone cliffs -Credit:John Myers

The village was never large, but in 1306 contained 10 tenant households, and in 1551 had 19 adults according to some records. It is also thought that due to Lancaut's geographical location in the bend of the River Wye, which could have been difficult to access was not suitable for permanent population which is why residents moved on.

By 1750 the village had only two inhabited houses. And the civil parish was merged with Tidenham on 1 April 1935. Today there is little remaining of the village except for a still-working farm nearby and the old remains of the church.

The site is now also known for being rich in wildlife with over 350 plant species recorded, and is an amazing spot to take in some stunning views from the cliffs and an ideal place to visit and go for a walk.

Inside the old church ruins
Inside the old church ruins -Credit:John Myers
Over 350 plant species have been recorded in the Lancaut area
Over 350 plant species have been recorded in the area -Credit:John Myers
Although the village is long gone, there is plenty of wildlife in the area as well as some cows grazing on the Lancaut Nature Reserve
Although the village is long gone, there is plenty of wildlife in the area as well as some cows grazing on the Lancaut Nature Reserve -Credit:John Myers

Visitors have shared their thoughts on the area on tourism websites like Tripadvisor with one person writing: "Clinging to the side of the Wye valley the steep woods of Lancaut are a great place to walk. Well marked paths lead down from a few parking places on Lancaut Lane to an ancient ruined church on the banks of the river. Hawks, kestrels and even Ravens can be seen. Well worth the steep climb back up."

Someone else praised the wildlife in the area, noting: "This is quite an arduous walk down from the road so take your time. There are ancient forests and riverbank tracks. We saw deer in the fields. The 1000 year old chapel is peaceful and interesting with 17th centre gravestones. It is a great place for your picnic."

The postcode for the car park is NP16 7JB, on Lancaut Lane, and because of sheep grazing in the meadow close to St James’ Church, owners are asked to keep dogs on a lead and under close control in the area.