Madrid: where to stay, eat and drink in Spain's capital

That this is no ordinary city is clear the moment you arrive at Madrid Barajas Airport, where you’re met by the undulating roof of Antonio Lamela and Richard Rogers’ award-winning design.

And so it continues: from phenomenal art to innovative cuisine, Madrid fuses heavyweight cultural credentials with modernity and urban nonchalance.

Restaurants are buzzing but not overfull, museums busy but not crowded. What’s left is a supremely liveable city.

Where to stay

In the 19th century the building that now houses the wonderful Gran Meliá Palacio de los Duques was home to the art-loving Dukes of Granada de Ega y Villahermosa, who donated a portrait by the 17th-century great Velázquez to the Prado Museum. The Velázquez link is felt everywhere thanks to the huge reproductions of his work adorning the walls. Located within walking distance of the main sights and shopping areas, it’s a destination in itself thanks to the presence of the excellent DOS CIELOS restaurant from celebrated chefs, Javier and Sergio Torres. There’s also a rooftop bar with unrivalled views and a brilliant spa offering specialist Thai treatments — ideal for the pre-dinner lull.

Rooms from £380 (melia.com)

Where to shop

Madrileños are seriously stylish and have the shops to match, from the blockbuster stores of chichi Salamanca (including the biggest, best-stocked Zara you’ve ever seen) to the quirky independents of Justicia. There you’ll find concept store PINKOCO, selling colourful homewares, and MARGARITA SE LLAMA MI AMOR, a florist with such beautiful displays you’ll have no choice but to stop and take at least half a dozen photos.

Where to drink

Never mind the stalls — it’s the rooftop bar that makes Madrid’s MERCADO SAN ANTÓN unmissable. Come early evening, it’s heaving. Order a sangria (yes, really) and take in the views over the buzzing Chueca district. Then head to the quietly glamorous bar cock, a gleaming nearby cocktail bar in a former brothel.

What to eat

Whether nibbling on rock-star chef David Muñoz’s high-concept fare at DiverXO or tucking into perfect steak at the down-home Casa Paco, you could devote an entire trip to eating. A highlight is sala de despiece, a no-reservation spot in the northern Chamberi neighbourhood. Sit at the bar and feast on thin layers of beef rolled up with truffle and tomato relish, grilled prawns and octopus with chimichurri. Arrive early or risk missing a spot.

What to do and see

Madrid’s museums are among the best in the world. The Prado is the headline act, stuffed with work by Velázquez (a recurring theme) and Francisco Goya. The Reina Sofía is another must; it’s home to Picasso’s Guernica, a visual sucker punch no matter how many times you’ve seen it reproduced. Elsewhere, take a stroll around the elegant El Retiro Park and, on Sunday, make like a local and dive into the cheerful chaos of the El Rastro flea market.