Milaidhoo, Maldives - hotel review

Landing with a bump into dark choppy waters and rain pouring down the seaplane’s windows wasn’t quite how I imagined my arrival in paradise.

This was our introduction to one of the Maldives’ newest luxury openings: Milaidhoo, a private island resort so tiny you can walk around it in five minutes. After a reviving glass of champagne we were introduced to our “island host” Sharufeez and led to our villa perched above the Indian Ocean.

Although the clouds were thick and low — and stayed that way for three days — it’s clear to see how this hotel is creating its own niche among the Maldives’ rapidly expanding portfolio of über-luxe offerings. Open since 2016, it’s a decidedly boutique resort with just 50 villas spread over land and water across 13 acres of a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in the Baa Atoll region.

But what sets it apart from its turbocharged neighbours is its traditional Maldivian approach to “small-island living”. Villas are dressed in a neutral palette of pale woods and whites — allowing the views to do the talking — offset by colourful hand-woven rugs and cushion covers. It’s the polished work of Maldivian architect Mohamed Shafeeq, who has made the most of local materials and talent to create something authentic rather than pandering to the international jet-set crowds.

In the Water Pool villas (surprisingly, they’re the entry-level rooms), retractable glass doors lead onto a generous deck with a swinging day bed, sun loungers and a private infinity pool. The interiors might nod to the traditional but the mod cons are all there, too: a Nespresso machine, a mini wine cellar, a flatscreen TV and a serious bathroom with a giant eggshaped, freestanding tub.

Overwater villas usually reign supreme in the Maldives but here the Beach Pool villas — set, as you’d expect, on the beach — are the ones to go for. Doors retract to showcase a 180-degree view where indoors and outdoors become blurred, the infinity pool bleeding onto your own slice of white sand and sea. Even better, your neighbours are far less visible on the beach compared with the over-water villas.

Food is taken seriously here. Signature restaurant Ba’theli is shaped from three dhoni (traditional Maldivian boats) and serves an “ocean to plate” menu of authentic local dishes — the first of its kind in the country, since international food is usually dominant on menus.

The sun never showed during our trip, which meant we couldn’t experience all that sunny Milaidhoo has to offer. But there’s a fantastic spa by Elemis with huts overlooking the water, kayaks and paddle boards to circumnavigate the island, snorkelling trips around the coral reef and the almost obligatory yoga and meditation classes.

If you’re looking for miles and miles of sand or the ultimate hammock backdrop for Instagram, Milaidhoo probably isn’t for you. It isn’t about getting snap-happy over breakfasts or lilac sunsets — it’s about switching off for a quiet, authentic experience, where the staff are heaven and nature reigns.

Details

Milaidhoo, Milaidhoo Island, Maldives (milaidhoo.com). Doubles from $1,625 (£1,175) half-board.Turquoise (turquoiseholidays.co.uk) offers seven nights half-board, including flights and seaplane