Yahoo News Milan Fashion Week: Giorgio Armani's Green New Deal
Milan is Armani country. To be fair, Italy, Europe, Earth and the wider universe is also Armani country, but the Armani-ness is felt most keenly in Milan, at various fashionable points throughout the year. For us fashion types, it’s January and June, mainly. Those that frequent Linate Airport will know that Emporio Armani is the first thing you see thanks to a vast neon sign atop the largest hangar, which has been in place since 1996.
Then into town, you’ll likely pass the Armani hotel on Via Manzoni, which as you might expect is as exclusive as they come. (It doesn’t shout, though; all clean lines, pale stone and soft light.) The Milanese runway shows are punctuated by Armani, too, there being two shows in the space of three days. Emporio first, always, and then Giorgio. But despite the stoic nature of the brand in Milan, January 2020 felt like a watershed moment for the label and the man at the helm.
Emporio Armani – the sportier, techier, brother to mainline Giorgio Armani – has long been nibbling at its sibling’s heels, offering easy tailoring in the Giorgio style (super soft, slouchy and shorter in the jacket) alongside spiky statement outerwear. Emporio is also where one finds EA-7, the sports line that has you looking chic and Milanese in the gym, on the slopes and anywhere you’re free to work up a sweat. This year, though, a new member of the family was introduced: R-EA. Recycled Emporio Armani. Presented as an extra mini show at the end of proceedings, accompanied by a giant first-person, ticker-tape read-out that stated “I’M SAYING YES TO RECYCLING”, so there’s no mistaking Mr A’s position.
In line with the industry-wide shift toward ethical production, the sub-collection of hardy, utility sportswear (read: tactical gilets, dungarees, hoods, harnesses, smocks etc.) is made from recycled, regenerated or organic materials. Time will tell if this method of production will roll out further than a capsule collection, but one can’t see it infiltrating the soft world of Giorgio Armani any time soon.
Though the A/W '20 show for the flagship collection opened two days later with skiwear, it quickly shifted into this season’s edition of the Giorgio we know and lionise. Over the course of the shows it felt like brands had conspired on an overall return to a masculine elegance that has been adrift of late, and looks from this collection summed it up neatly. The DB overcoat and loafers of look 13, the raglan sleeves of the coat in look 17, the off-the-shoulder styling of look 31, and countless more.
It was a collection of trends, too. Geometric knits, oblique tailoring, shearling details, miniature accessories, belted overcoats and lots of red. And it boasted the biggest trend of all: a conscience. If Giorgio Armani is demoing his green credentials, you can bet the industry will follow.
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