Night markets, sky bars and a giant Buddha: the best bits of Bangkok – and three standout hotels
Colourful, cacophonic and a round-the-clock adventure – in Bangkok gilded royal palaces are sited next to shopping malls containing their own theatres and urban parks. Bangkok lives large: it plays in sky bars, night markets and open-air theatres. It prays at Buddhist temples, Catholic churches, ornate mosques and Hindu temples. In a city that serves up one fast-paced adventure after another – travellers will need a place of calm where they can retreat from the melee. Three standout hotels promise a serene respite from the hustle and bustle – all you need to do is choose your holiday style …
Explore history and culture from Millennium Hilton Bangkok
The Chao Phraya river – or the River of Kings – courses through a city of 11 million to connect palaces, temples and major historical sights. The cultural must-see is the Grand Palace. From 1782, this gilt-edged complex hosted the kings of Siam – the historic name of Thailand – amid pavilions, a throne room and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
The Grand Palace
The river is a vital jamboree of commuter boats, superyachts and fishing smacks, colouring Thailand’s capital right around the clock. Millennium Hilton Bangkok has a royally good location right on the Chao Phraya river. Guest rooms have panoramic windows that frame either the river or the historic city beyond. A few minutes’ walk north of the hotel is Wat Thong Noppakhun. The architecture inside this ancient temple complex recalls maritime exploration: lighthouse-shaped stones and a gigantic carving of an Asian junk. Nearby, you can find Iconsiam, a modernist mall that features brands such as Apple and Zeiss – pure luxury on your doorstep.
Fancy discovering further? The Millennium Hilton Bangkok sits at the confluence of the Gold Line monorail and the Iconsiam ferry pier, so you can venture out with minimal effort. Alternatively, the hotel operates a complimentary shuttle boat service from Saphan Taksin BTS station, allowing guests to experience a scenic ride along the Chao Phraya river.
Just across the Chao Phraya river from the Hilton is one of the world’s largest Chinatowns. This historic neighbourhood is richly scented with incense coming from Sampeng market, a warren of kiosks stocking trinkets, jewels, footwear and fabrics. For a respite from the bustle, duck into one of the district’s Buddhist shrines such as Kuan Yim, where red Chinese lanterns dangle from shady porticoes. The key Chinatown attraction is Yaowarat Road. The thoroughfare has been a street food nexus for two centuries and is the place to sample crispy pork belly noodles and peppered squid soup until the early hours.
Chinatown and the night market (top); the ThreeSixty Jazz Lounge
If relaxing in the comfort of your hotel is more your thing, Millennium Hilton boasts a 20m infinity pool featuring a bar that serves rambutan smoothies. Other interior areas combine elements of space and natural light, while offering locally sourced drinks, from Mekhong Thai whisky to Singha beer.
Take your relaxation one step further and visit the hotel’s Eforea spa, spanning two floors. Tired holidaymakers can book themselves in for a bespoke jet lag package, which includes a traditional Thai massage and facial.
Enjoy a traditional Thai massage at the Eforea spa
The Millennium Hilton’s pièce de résistance is the epic ThreeSixty Jazz Lounge on Level 32. Unlike most sky bars in Bangkok, this panoramic highlight overlooks the Chao Phraya river, rather than other residences. This is accommodation fit for a king.
Relax at the Conrad Bangkok
A personal physician of the Buddha was alleged to have brought Thai massage to Thailand more than 2,500 years ago. The technique has been an integral part of Thai medicine ever since. The artform is inscribed on to the Unesco intangible cultural heritage list, and every Bangkok local, from burly builders to ladies who lunch, swears by the remedy.
The Conrad Bangkok’s Seasons Spa is a fabulous wellness location. An aura of serenity suffuses the 11 themed treatment areas, which feature steam rooms, whirlpools and Japanese tubs alongside scrubs, facials and wraps.
Lumpini Park (top left); Conrad Bangkok’s tennis courts and pool
When Bangkok residents take a break they head to Lumpini Park, a green lung close to the Conrad Bangkok. The park is a destination for dawn yoga, morning tai chi and high energy techno workouts. At sundown, it can seem as if much of Bangkok has laced on a pair of Nikes for a round-the-park jog. The energy is palpable.
Back at the Conrad, the decor of the hotel’s grand lobby offers another breath of fresh air – the theme is ancient culture meets 21st century, all teak, gold and brushed bronze.
Wat Pho
The culinary draw is Kisara, the hotel’s Japanese fine dining restaurant. The chef raises sushi to an art form with dishes such as moriawase (mixed fish) sashimi and soft shell crab maki rolls. The restaurant’s most entertaining table is the one next to the Teppanyaki grill. Here, chefs sizzle wagyu beef, scallops and teriyaki salmon in front of diners’ eyes.
One of Bangkok’s most relaxing sights, Wat Pho, continues the restful vibes. A reclining Buddha, 46 metres (150ft) long, serves as the temple’s golden centrepiece. Hidden from the city hustle, the leafy complex doubles as the headquarters of Thailand’s traditional medicine industry. Two pavilions teach Nuad Thai (traditional Thai massage), and visitors can enjoy a classic Thai massage there if they feel like it.
Indulge in city break luxury at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok
Just around the corner from the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok sits an authentic Thai icon. The Erawan Shrine synthesises Thailand’s Buddhist and Hindu beliefs. Here, Bangkok residents light incense to pray for good fortune.
Travellers who have the good fortune to be staying at the Waldorf Astoria might be tempted to start their luxurious stay at the infinity pool on the 16th floor. It boasts breathtaking skyline views, and an atmosphere that exudes luxury. Nearby, the hotel’s spa is a cocoon of tranquillity. Rituals include a thermal clay wrap, an ayurvedic head-to-toe oil massage and a body scrub. All of which provides a rejuvenating boost after a day of exploring Thailand’s largest city.
The Erawan Shrine; Waldorf Astoria Bangkok’s Front Room and infinity pool
EmSphere, Bangkok’s newest mega-mall, is a short drive from the hotel. Opened in 2023, it is an entire lifestyle destination complete with a food market, an urban park and a wine bar where the sound track is vinyl. Ed Sheeran launched EmSphere’s 6,000-seat arena with a concert earlier this year.
The 2023 Michelin Guide to Thailand awarded the country a mammoth 41 Michelin stars. The hottest table belongs to Thailand’s most decorated female chef, Chudaree Debhakam, whose restaurant Baan Tepa was recently elevated to two-star status. Baan Tepa is staffed by red-suited waiters who deliver dishes such as the artistically presented “street cart” platter, which includes chicken liver mousse and sticky rice brioche.
And if you’d rather enjoy the delights of Thai cuisine without stepping foot outside of your hotel, the Waldorf’s Front Room is inspired by ros mue Mae, a concept that means “cooked by mother”. It translates as beautifully presented bowls of coconut broth with sea bass and taro stem, and deep-fried tofu skin with steamed turnip.
The Loft at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok
After all that delicious food, why not finish the day with a cocktail or two? The Loft, a New York inspired bar, comes with stunning views of skyscrapers and specialises in “forgotten” cocktails and artisanal spirits. The speakeasy serves Thai-American mixes such as the Magnolia, a white rum cooler with goji berry infused pisco and lime, and Candy Cat, which features Japanese Roku gin, mezcal and jasmine syrup. Fourteen new cocktails were introduced in August, including one inspired by the Wright brothers’ 1903 flight – a rum and whisky concoction, First Airplane. Before you take a sip, raise a glass to south-east Asia’s most happening city.
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