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New Order: All-in wine at NOPI

Drinking spot: NOPI is serving up the all-in wine by the litre
Drinking spot: NOPI is serving up the all-in wine by the litre

The drink

All-in wine at Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurant NOPI (which stands for North of Piccadilly). The full name of this Italian is Farnea, Colli Euganei, Veneto, 2016 (£6.50 a glass and £48 a bottle) but try saying that when you’re a bottle down. Made from a mix of nine grape varieties, both red and white, it has a deep pink colour. It comes by the glass or in a litre bottle, which won’t seem like a lot once you start sipping.

The USP

No chemicals, just good grapes, thoughtfully cultivated and grown in sunshine. Marco, who makes it, has a low-intervention approach. Whether or not that means the hangovers are less punishing is a matter of debate. It’s complex and interesting but without feeling intimidating. Marco wants it to be enjoyed without much pondering. But in case you want to think about the taste, it has pretty aromatics, tastes of summers by the Mediterranean sea and is fresh and lively with notes of over-ripe fig. NOPI say it’s a fun wine to sell. Oh, and the litre size gives it added appeal.

The accompaniment

​NOPI has just launched its summer menu and there’s plenty to pair this wine with. Keeping with the Italian vibe, try grilled Romano peppers, ricotta, tomatillo salsa and pineapple (£9.50). Or, for a protein fix, there’s Koji rainbow trout with a typically Ottolenghi mix of labneh, yuzu kosho and macademia. (£13.90).