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Piedmont at Christmas: why this unassuming corner of Italy is the ultimate foodie weekend

Katie Gregory
Katie Gregory

The hilltop town of Govone remains firmly under the radar for 11 months of the year. Nestled in Italy’s Piedmont region, it’s overshadowed by its bigger, brighter neighbours – from the airport city of Turin, to the scene-stealing region of Tuscany.

At the end of November every year, however, things change pretty drastically for this timeworn Italian town. The Magico Paese di Natale Christmas festival fills every corner of the place with festive markets, seasonal shows and snow-covered scenes, not to mention about 180,000 extra visitors.

For 2017, the festival is branching out into the next-door areas of Canale and Monticello d’Alba for the second year running. And, at just a two-hour hop from several London airports, it’s a must-visit for any UK foodie worth their organic, hand-flaked sea salt.

Piedmont: food and drink to dine for

When it comes to edible treats, this region’s culinary credentials are hard to beat. The town of Govone sits plum in the middle of Asti – of sparkling wine fame – and Alba, aka the home of white truffles. And if a bottle of red is more your thing, you’re in luck, because Barolo’s namesake deep, rich vino rosso is produced right on the doorstep.

In fact, the whole region of the Langhe and Roero is blanketed in vineyards ripe for exploring. Know your tipples? Then you might recognise names like Barbaresco and Dolcetto, both produced in the wineries here. The best thing is, because Piedmont remains relatively undiscovered compared to Chianti-producing Tuscany, wine-tasting tours here can be savoured, minus the crowds.

(Katie Gregory)
(Katie Gregory)

Where to drink in Govone

During the festival, the Christmas winery is the place to be. A huge wooden chalet near the UNESCO World Heritage-stamped Castle, it buzzes with hundreds of sommeliers and local producers who know everything there is to know about Piedmont wine. In a nutshell, you can taste your way around the region without leaving the building.

Elsewhere, there’s the Santa Claus Inn and the Milky Bar, serving authentic milk cocktails and steaming cups of traditional hot chocolate from Baratti & Milano in the square.

And, one of the Magico Paese di Natale’s star attractions – the steam train that ferries families from Turin Porta Nuova station to the country house of Santa Claus himself on Sunday December 17 – also includes a pit-stop at the Regional Enoteca of Roero in Canale, another rite of passage for wine-lovers.

Where to eat in Govone

Govone’s street food stalls heave with delicacies from the region during the Magico Paese di Natale, so you’re never far from your next mouthful. Pack your loosest trousers and pick your way through crusty artisan loafs, rainbow pasta shapes to take home and traditional pastries to snaffle on the spot. And while you’re in town, try speciality cheeses like Goliardo and Margot – the first is made with wine, the latter with beer.

When you’re done grazing, sit down to dinner at any one of the local trattorias and feast on the meaty pasta dishes this region does so well. For a more formal meal, try the Restaurant Le Scuderie del Castello di Govone – a dress-up-for-dinner affair in the old stables of Govone’s Castle.

(Katie Gregory)
(Katie Gregory)

Food plays a big part in many of the family-friendly performances at this year’s Magico Paese di Natale, too. Mamma Natale's Kitchen is aimed at kids and tells the story of baking in the region, and there’s a whole list of pop-up theatre shows, LEGO workshops and special events for younger guests.

Where to stay in Govone

This region of northwest Italy is speckled with B&Bs, agriturismos – working farms – and historic houses with camere, or rooms. Govone is the heart of the action, so it’s the best place to rest your head. But close-by Canale is getting involved this year with a Christmas market, and it’s also on the steam train route.

Monticello d’Alba, meanwhile, is a little further out, and the spotlight falls firmly on its castle. Tiptoe to the library room to meet Santa Claus with the kids, then un-fasten your top button for the great Christmas dinner in the dressing room.

How to get there

Easyjet, Ryanair, Blue Air and British Airways all fly to Turin from multiple London airports, with flights available on Mondays and Fridays. Prices start from £20 one-way.

From Turin airport, Govone is just over an hour’s drive away or you can head to Turin Porta Nuova train station and take the Magico Paese di Natale steam train on Sunday December 17.

Katie Gregory is a travel writer, freelance copywriter and mum of two. She blogs about family travel at There We Go.