In a flurry of torrential rain and travel chaos — editors flying out yesterday had bags lost, while those trying to make it today faced cancellations — Milan Fashion Week has got off to a shaky start.
But on the catwalks, three well considered evening collections helped take the edge off, after Fendi began the packed offcial schedule yesterday afternoon with a show that was just as glamorous on the front row as on the catwalk. Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Demi Moore and Cara Delevingne made for an electric atmosphere.
Roberto Cavalli, designed by Madonna and Taylor Swift’s go-to stage outfitter Fausto Puglisi, stayed true to his interpretation of the heritage Italian brand at his 7pm show last night. Bright pink, ostrich feather prints made for a bright opening of billowing maxi dresses, blazers worn with crochet bras and one trench which had actual feathers peeking out.
Puglisi, who welcomed Amy Jackson and Sky Ferreira to his front row, once again entertained his boho tendencies, and aviator glasses, super-skinny silk scarves and knocking conch shell necklaces helped to finish his go-to leather bralette and sequined, leopard print flare looks.
Next came Etro, the heritage label which has endured a personality crisis in its jacquard silks and clashing prints of late. But its still-new designer, Marco De Vincenzo, who this year took on the 1968 founded company, looked to be finding his footing. A well-balanced mix of smart leather blazers clashed with rich, carpet style opera coats-cum-blankets which made for an ageless collection of very wearable, beautifully saturated coloured clothing.
Jean Paul Gaultier looking tattoo-effect mesh dresses were another staple, while a floor sweeping black, blancmange pink and yellow print skirt-dress dress paired with a micro, leather mini made for an appetising finish.
The final destination was Diesel, which has fast become the Gen-Z brand of choice thanks to its reinvention by designer Glenn Martens, who has headed up the brand since 2020. An al fresco show in testing conditions meant it was umbrellas for A-list invitees Charli XCX, Jaden Smith and band FLO.
Distressed, semi-degrading denim strappy dresses and shirts made for a shredded opening; all nineties grunge, nostalgie de la boue. But when it comes to sexiness, Martens does not differentiate between his men’s and womenswear — both get torso squeezing, acid washed denim vest tops, nude effect, shimmering translucent tops and gowns, and, by the collection’s conclusion, had their face and bodies painted alien-esque whites, pinks and golds. The buzz around Diesel only grows.
Conversation amongst show-goers today, however, will be focussed on whether they can retrieve their suitcases before Prada.