Rochelle Canteen's Margot Henderson picks her favourite puddings in London

It’s said the proof of the pudding is in the eating – but for me, the proof of good eating is in the pudding.

Whether it’s fluffy clouds of meringue or lightly-sugared madeleines fresh from the oven, a pudding is the crescendo to a communal feast. They’re frivolous, they’re an indulgence – and that’s exactly what makes them oh-so-delicious, and much naughtier than another glass of wine or a tepid cheeseboard.

Jam-smeared plates and puddles of ice cream have always screamed celebration for me, which is why at both Rochelle Canteen restaurants, which I run with Melanie Arnold, there’s always a roll call of desserts dusted with sweet nostalgia on the menu. After all, no meal is complete without a sugar-coated sheet of caramel or a duvet of custard to put those savoury notes of dinner to bed.

In London, we’re lucky to have our pick of the puddings ready to be dished up and shared – or not. Here are just a few of my favourites.

Overripe plantain and rhubarb, Ikoyi

The word ‘pudding’ rings out as quintessentially English, but I think this from the boys at modern West African Ikoyi is one for those looking for British character at its most international. The exotic but familiar flavours of overripe plantain – something like banana – mash wonderfully with tart rhubarb, that stalwart of tart puds. A work of art to look at, too.

1 St James’s Market, St. James’s, SW1Y 4AH, ikoyilondon.com

Summer pudding, Quo Vadis

Jeremy Lee, Quo Vadis’s proprietor, has a penchant for puddings like no-one else. His creations are fantastical reimaginations of Victorian dinner party fare, and pure filth to drool over on the restaurant’s Instagram. His summer pudding, of layered, boozy bread and seasonal summer fruits, is a ruby red jewel in his crown.

26-29 Dean St, Soho, W1D 3LL, quovadissoho.co.uk

Vanilla ice cream with espresso salt caramel sauce, Caravan King’s Cross

Sometimes, the merit of a decent dessert is its simplicity – but, to guarantee sweet success, stick to only the best ingredients. Caravan has perfected this approach with their version of an affogato. Salt caramel sauce works with their excellent bitter coffee, reacting with the subtle spice of vanilla ice cream.

1 Granary Square, Kings Cross, N1C 4AA, caravanrestaurants.co.uk

Ma Lai cake, XU

Taiwanese desserts are gaining popularity across town and when properly executed, they’re as finely balanced as their savoury dishes. With this, a steamed brown sugar cake served with condensed milk and butterscotch, it’s the spongy texture of the cake and intense sweetness of the condensed milk that do it for me.

30 Rupert St, China Town, W1D 6DL, xulondon.com

Doughnuts, St John

Where to start? You’ll struggle to pick a pudding here but then, given I’m married to Fergus Henderson, who founded the place with Trevor Gulliver and Jon Spiteri, perhaps I’m a little biased. I’m partial to one of the doughnuts, filled with a full belly of custard or chocolate crème. They’re the most wonderful bready bookend to finish your meal with if you’ve started with some sourdough and butter. Take another away for later, too.

EC1M 4AY and E1 6LZ, stjohnrestaurant.com

Paris-Brest, The French House

Following a fair few coupes du vin downstairs and a truly great meal upstairs, I like to crown the affair with a Paris-Brest. Hazelnut praline cream is sandwiched between light-as-air choux pastry, all topped with icing sugar and toasted flaked almonds. A French kiss of a classic.

49 Dean St, Soho, W1D 5BG, frenchhousesoho.com

Plum Crumble, Rochelle Canteen

And finally, one of my own. Who doesn’t love the most quintessential of English puddings, the crumble? At Rochelle, we always have a plum one at the end of summer; it makes the most of these delicious fruits and is my favourite way to use them up. If that’s not your bag, our twist on Neapolitan ice cream combines the wistful allure of rich cocoa, sweet vanilla, and summer fresh strawberries.

E2 7FA and SW1Y 5AH, arnoldandhenderson.com

Margot Henderson is the co-founder of Rochelle Canteen, Shoreditch and Rochelle Canteen at the ICA.