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Get on the sauce: Where to find the best mayonnaise in London

Come what mayo: Cyprus Chips with herby mayonnaise from Oklava
Come what mayo: Cyprus Chips with herby mayonnaise from Oklava

London’s on the sauce — and not just the boozy variety. Mayo in a burger or to dip chips in is entry level. The city’s chefs are experimenting.

At Tredwells in Covent Garden, guests can’t stop dunking their triple-cooked chips in the new hollandaise mayo. It’s rich and creamy yet has a kick of acidity from the vinegar and shallot reduction, making it the perfect accompaniment to a crisp chip that’s fluffy in the centre. It’s all the proud work of chef patron Chantelle Nicholson.

Flavoured mayo is all the rage but it takes more than just a good egg. Coal Rooms in Peckham runs beef fat through its mayo — guests say it’s a game-changer — and Linden Stores in Islington serves a meaty, creamy Bovril mayo with its bubble and squeak croquettes. Head chef Chris Boustead says it’s a “nostalgic flavour” that takes him back to drinking Bovril at Scarborough football matches when he was younger.

Others are getting herbal. Mildred’s does a basil mayo with its vegan beetroot burger at its three branches and Nuala bar in Old Street serves a chervil mayo with its smoked cod’s roe crackers. Nearby, Turkish restaurant Oklava serves its popular Cyprus Chips with a blob of rich, herby mayo “so you get some fries drenched in mayo and some without”, says co-owner Selin Kiazim.

If you want to spice things up, try mayo with a kick. The Piggie Burger at Bar Boulud in Knightsbridge comes with jalepeno mayo and the chipotle mayo at Honest Burger branches is a favourite, while Caravan does a saffron mayo with its jamon and smoked San Simon croquettes.

Edwins neighbourhood bistro in Borough serves scallops in filo with harissa mayo — seafood is a popular pairing: Zelman Meats serves a fiery Holy F*** Mayo with its tiger prawn tempura and Yida Sushi in Highbury does an earthy truffle mayo with its tuna maki dish. It’s a slam dunk.