How seaside town transformed from 'forgotten' to a top UK holiday destination

Pictured is a general view of the town
-Credit: (Image: Getty)


For years, I mistakenly believed that this iconic seaside town wasn't worth a visit, perhaps tainted by long-forgotten trips during my teenage and early adult years. Now, after such an impressive transformation or possibly a change in perspective, the once dismissed Tenby has captured my heart.

It's become a place I'd happily call home, reversing my two-decade-long vow to never return, and I regret not rediscovering its charm much sooner. The allure of Tenby is manifold - from its welcoming eateries and pubs to the four accessible beaches near the town centre, not forgetting the world-renowned colourful houses perched atop cliffs. The beauty of Pembrokeshire acts as a magnificent backdrop.

Ideal for families, friend groups, or couples, Tenby caters to all with its tranquil beaches, historic cobbled streets, nature-ridden walks, and vibrant nightlife. Its recent accolade as one of Britain's best seaside towns in 2024 comes as no surprise.

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Tenby has ingrained itself into my life, as well as my family's and friends. While I may not reside there, we've made it a tradition to book a house annually and spend our summer holidays soaking up this coastal gem, reports the Express. Among the myriad of activities in Tenby, the beaches are a standout feature.

Tenby boasts the unique feature of having four different beaches within minutes' walking distance from the town centre. North and South Beach offer vast expanses at low tide, with North Beach featuring a striking rock formation at its core. Nestled between these two are Harbour Beach, home to the town's small fishing fleet, and Castle Beach, flanked by rocky outcrops, one of which hosts a notable clifftop fort.

Caldey Island

Caldey Island is an extraordinary location and considered one of Britain's "holy islands". It has been a monastic site for centuries, currently housing a stunning white Italianate-style monastery built in 1906, as well as the 13th-century St Illtyd's Church.

However, the true charm of Caldey Island lies in exploring it from end to end. Along the way, you'll encounter grazing horses, verdant fields, and even a working chocolate factory where you can purchase a bar.

Once you've traversed to the farthest point of Caldey Island, you can soak in the tranquillity while gazing out at the sea. Accessible by boat from Tenby, with regular services operating to and from Tenby's harbour, your arrival on Caldey greets you with a pristine, near-white sandy beach that wouldn't seem amiss in the Caribbean.

With the majority of visitors flocking to Tenby's beaches, this could be your ideal spot for some solitary beach time.

Exploring Pembrokeshire

Tenby is merely one of the many gems in Pembrokeshire's treasure trove. While there's an abundance to see and do here, let's touch upon a few standout attractions.

Firstly, the stunning coastline boasts numerous beautiful beaches, including Freshwater West (home to Dobby's "grave" from Harry Potter) and Barafundle, previously recognised as one of the UK's top beaches.

A scenic walk from Bosherston will lead you to Barafundle, passing through serene lily ponds along the way. Nearby, you'll find the rugged St Govan's Head, housing one of Britain's most extraordinary coastal features: St Govan's chapel, a 13th or 14th-century structure embedded into the cliff face, with the roar of crashing waves beneath.

This corner of Pembrokeshire also hosts the Stackpole nature reserve, while further north lies the stark beauty of the rolling Preseli Hills.

Ancient and old landmarks

Pembrokeshire is steeped in history, with landmarks dating back centuries. One such site is the Pentre Ifan burial chamber, a relic from the Neolithic era when our ancestors used such tombs for their dead.

The county also boasts numerous castles, largely due to the Landsker Line which historically divided the Welsh in the north from Norman and Flemish settlers in the south.

Carew Castle is one such example, majestically overlooking the tidal waters where the Carew river meets the channel. The tidal range here offers varying views depending on the time of day.

Nearby, the walls around the tidal mill provide excellent opportunities for crabbing.

Food and drink

When it comes to dining in Tenby, the town caters to its influx of visitors with a variety of eateries. Tap and Tan stands out as a unique barbecue joint and craft beer haven, where meat is cooked on open flames as you order.

Plantagenet House, located in one of Tenby's oldest and most charming buildings next to the town's Tudor merchant house, offers a taste of history dating back to medieval times.

Down Sergeant's Lane, you'll discover the Harbwr Brewery. Once an abandoned and overgrown alleyway, it's now a charming cobbled lane where you can order a drink directly from the brewery and enjoy some people-watching.

Attached to the brewery is a pub. As you stroll towards the harbour, you'll come across a shack selling crab sandwiches and lobster rolls, as well as The Stowaway, a cosy spot for coffee and cake, tucked away underground in an old archway.

When it comes to accommodation in Tenby, there are plenty of options. From standard chain hotels like Premier Inn and Travelodge to independent establishments, many of which are located along the seafront.

However, the real charm lies in finding a unique house or converted apartment on the seafront, available on platforms like Booking.com or Airbnb.

Many of the colourful seafront homes that Tenby is known for can be rented out. My family had the pleasure of staying in a spacious flat just steps away from the harbour and beach, while entire homes with sea views are also available for hire.

It's worth noting that, like many parts of Wales and the UK, Pembrokeshire has a significant issue with homes being bought and rented out to visitors, rather than being occupied by locals.

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