Sets appeal: Pre-theatre menu at Hunter 486

Fiona MacConnacher
Laid back glamour at Hunter 486 within The Arch Hotel: The Arch London

For the latest in our Sets Appeal series we try Hunter 486 located in the family-run Arch Hotel along Great Cumberland Place, a calming oasis before you hit the West End or head to the Royal Albert Hall.

What’s the deal? £19 or £21 for a two or three course set pre-theatre menu by Head Chef Gary Durrant, formally of The Savoy and Brompton Bar and Grill.

When is it available? The menu is available until 7pm every day and changes on a fortnightly basis.

What’s it like? Situated within the 5 star hotel The Arch, a family run affair near Marble Arch, Hunter 486 offers personable, warm service amongst the cosy yet high-end decor; leather booths, sumptuous fabrics with a semi-open kitchen and a blazing stone oven in the corner. Immediately adjacent to the restaurant is Le Salon du Champagne, a snug corner where you can enjoy a pre-pre-theatre cocktail. Their marvellously named Martini Library is also available to eat in if you have your dog in tow - worth knowing beyond their set menu offering.

Maybe it’s just my gin-addled brain but the Hunter around the Clock cocktail: a gin, elderflower, cucumber and mint Bartender’s Choice was just the ticket after a busy day along with the moreish lemon and sage hand-cooked crisps. Luckily, when I'd finished the first bowl, they brought out another bowl that I equally devoured – there definitely was no judgement at my quite staggering crisp intake and, for that reason, I could not recommend this place enough.

Verdict: The set menu is concise but well thought through, adhering to the Best of British style that Durrant executes so well. Starters like their Smoked Haddock Croquettes are unfussy and well flavoured with considered presentation. The vegetarian main course option, a large brain-like ravioli, in a saffron broth feels a la carte in its execution as does the guinea fowl with sweet potato gnocchi. If you’re going for two courses, opt for dessert instead: the lemon posset with sesame and poppy seed biscuit was, quite simply, a delight. Combine this with the price, the wonderfully attentive service and laid-back luxe atmosphere and you’re onto a pre-curtain winner.

Find it: 50 Great Cumberland Pl, Marylebone, W1H 7FD, thearchlondon.com

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