Yahoo News #SkinSchool: Everything you need to know about sensitive skin
There's a huge amount of confusion surrounding sensitive skin, largely due to the fact that everyone’s skin has, at some point, been sensitive to something. (Considering the pro-strength acids and potent retinols available on the market today, it’s hardly surprising either.) But when sensitive skin is a permanent issue for you, it can be tricky – and exhausting – working out how to build a daily routine.
Here, we’ve asked the experts to dispel the myths and reveal everything you need to know about sensitive skin – from working out how whether you have it, to the ingredients to utilise and the products to trust.
Of course, conditions such as contact dermatitis and eczema should be assessed by a dermatologist or doctor, but the below is a reliable guide for managing reaction-prone skin on a daily basis.
What is sensitive skin?
According to dermatologist Dr. Justine Hextall, sensitive skin is skin that tends to react to the application of various products – specifically those that are traditionally tricky to tolerate, such as “alcohol-based gels, exfoliants, soaps and perfumed formulas amongst others”.
Dr. Anita Sturnham, a GP specialising in dermatology, explains that sensitive skin is a perception of how your skin feels rather than a medical diagnosis. “The term is normally used to describe how your skin feels when you use skincare or beauty products on it. Symptoms such as burning, tingling, stinging, redness, dryness and peeling can be associated with skin sensitivity.” Of course, when you have sensitive skin, every new product is a gamble.
“Recent surveys have shown that up to 50 per cent of the population claim to have sensitive skin, with women being slightly more susceptible than men and areas of the face such as the eyelids being especially delicate,” says Sturnham.
Am I sensitive or sensitised?
Sensitive skin can be caused by genetics, and occur consistently. “It can be linked to an underlying medical cause, such as irritant or allergic contact dermatitis,” says Sturnham. “Those with eczema, acne, rosacea or other inflammatory skin conditions are also prone to sensitivity."
However, any skin type can experience periodical sensitivities, which are often caused by a certain ingredient or excessive concentration. Hextall flags the overuse of ‘actives’ as a rising cause of sensitive skin, so you may want to eye that super-strength exfoliator up with new-found suspicion.
“If your skin becomes sensitive as a result of product application, irritant dermatitis normally appears acutely, whereas allergic contact dermatitis can take some time to appear,” says Sturnham. “Each time you use the product you build up a slightly stronger immune response, and eventually the skin erupts.”
What’s more, certain environmental factors can also increase sensitivity, including UV exposure and fluctuations in external temperature.
Is ‘hypoallergenic’ the gold standard?
Many assume that a product labelled as ‘hypoallergenic’ is ideal for sensitive skin but, like many beauty buzzwords, this term may not mean quite what you’d expect. “Unfortunately the labelling on many skincare brands is misleading,” says Sturnham. “Whilst the term ‘hypoallergenic’ may seem comforting, be cautious. There are no federal standards or definitions that govern the use of this term and a labelling of 'hypoallergenic' can mean whatever a particular company wants it to mean.”
Manufacturers of cosmetics are not required to submit substantiation of their hypoallergenicity claims to the FDA, meaning it’s ultimately a redundant term. Sturnham’s best advice? “Become your own skin expert and check labels for key ingredients to avoid.”
How to treat sensitive skin
“When you have sensitive skin, regardless of the underlying cause, the key issues are skin barrier dysfunction and raised levels of inflammation,” says Sturnham. “So, the strategy to treat sensitive skin should be based around protection of your barriers, while hydrating and calming the skin.’
Hextall adds that while those with a predisposition to sensitive skin will always be potentially vulnerable, finding the right routine – and omitting any reaction-causing ingredients – will help keep your skin consistently calmer and more comfortable.
Ready to implement your strategy? Here are the key rules to live by...
Keep it simple
“My best advice is to keep things simple. Strip your skincare regimen right back to a gentle cream or gel-based cleanser, morning and night, to start with,” says Sturnham. “Look for hydrating ingredients such as rosehip, wheat germ and glycerin in a non-foaming formulation.” Only add in other products once your skin feels balanced and ready.
Forget foam
When you have sensitive skin, the list of products to approach with caution is lengthy, but foaming formulas sit at the very top. Many frothy face washes are more alkaline in pH than the skin, meaning they’ll upset that all-important balance and leave your face feeling stripped. Lots of the traditional formulas call on alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol which can break down the skin’s barrier (not all alcohols are bad for skin, but this one certainly is).
Change your acid
The rise of ‘at-home peels’ involving alpha-hydroxy acids (namely glycolic) is undoubtedly behind many a sensitivity flare-up, but having reaction-prone skin doesn’t mean you have to avoid chemical exfoliation altogether.
Sturnham suggests switching out the harsher acids in favour of lactic. “It’s a hydrating alpha-hydroxy acid exfoliant that works superficially,” she says. The key it not to overuse acid-based products, which means a once-weekly treatment only – especially if your barrier function is impaired.
If you’re looking to clear congestion, another option is to use a night-time cleanser containing salicylic acid, in a maximum concentration of two per cent.
Hydrate wisely
Hydration is crucial for sensitive skin – but it’s equally important to find the right formula. Sturnham advises using a lighter moisturiser in the morning. The ideal choice will be oil-free, water-based and non-comedogenic. “Ingredients such as squalane, peptides and hyaluronic acid work well, combined with plant-based emollients such as safflower and apricot kernel,” she says. At night, look for the same key ingredients, but in a richer texture.
Ditch the fragrance
Another one on Sturnham’s hit list, fragrance is entirely surplus to your skin’s requirements. It’s important to consider that not all fragrance is synthetic either: many ‘natural’ (a term as ambiguous as ‘hypoallergenic’ ) products use essential oils to create spa-like scents that are admittedly lovely, but not ideal for sensitive skin. Of course, not all essential oils will cause irritation, but many can – some key culprits are mint and lavender – so if your skin is easily upset, it’s best to avoid altogether.
Boost your barrier
Another way to boost your barrier is via a fortifying, hydrating serum, applied both morning and night. “Ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, squalane and hyaluronic acid are my top picks,” says Sturnham.
Always wear SPF
Of course, using a good SPF every day is the golden rule of skincare, and it's especially important for the sensitive-skinned. Sturnham recommends a mineral-based, factor 30 SPF to shield skin and prevent further inflammation.
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