The sleepy village where hardly anyone lives that has two astonishing pubs

Inside the White Hart pub and brewery in Llanddarog
-Credit: (Image: John Myers)


You often won't see many people about in one Welsh village. That's because not many live there - around 2,000 at the last count (2021 Census), and that's including other surrounding communities to bump up the numbers.

So it might come as a surprise that Llanddarog in Carmarthenshire is home to not one but two fantastic pubs. Perhaps it's less of a surprise when you realise there isn't a huge amount to do around here - even the village hall is shut right now for redevelopment. Of course, there is the glorious surrounding countryside to enjoy, but the people who choose to live in this community may well like it quiet anyway.

If they do fancy some socialising, they have options however. One of them is The Butchers which we visited in 2023 and is as traditional as they come. With its thick stone walls, a roaring fire and old framed pictures of the local village and its inhabitants, it feels like stepping into an old miner's cottage. For the latest restaurant reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here

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Adding to this charm are the friendly faces behind the bar, the sound of the Welsh language being spoken by staff and patrons alike, and the cosy, casual layout that makes it feel like a second home. The comfort extends to the food, which when we visited was home-cooked and far from ordinary pub fare.

While they served classic favourites like steak, burgers, towering pies, and a meaty butcher's platter, they also offered a variety of fish and vegetarian dishes, as well as unique options like crispy duck in orange sauce and specials such as king prawn linguine and sizzling fajitas.

All the food was freshly prepared using local produce, and you certainly won't leave hungry (especially after perusing the dessert menu!

The heart of the pub is undoubtedly the bar, with its old wooden beams and stonework, serving local ales alongside a good selection of wines and ciders. It's easy to see why people enjoy settling down for a few hours to chat about times past!

If you're in search of a hearty meal, a warm Welsh welcome and a cosy chat by the fire after a long countryside walk, you could look no further than the Butchers. However, just across the road lies another gem: the White Hart Inn. This 652-year-old pub boasts a thatched roof, its own brewery and distillery - you can read more about the White Hart here.

The White Hart Inn holds a unique charm. It feels like stepping back into a time when pubs were the heart of the community, where people would raise their tankards high to discuss the day's events.

A pub has stood on this site since the 14th century, welcoming patrons who would have arrived by horse and cart. The Coles family has been running it since 1994, maintaining its independent spirit with no corporate branding or chain-approved posters. Instead, the ceilings and walls are decorated with hundreds of items collected over the years, each contributing to the pub's unique character. These include jugs, pots, vases, plates, boots, wheels, saddles and muskets.

The pub boasts two spacious yet cosy dining rooms flanking the main bar, which leads to a small lounge area showcasing all the homemade produce available for purchase. Menus are readily available, which when we visited in 2023 featured a wide array of meals ranging from curries to burgers, pizzas to steaks, and roast dinners to sandwiches and baguettes.

With beer gardens at both the front and rear, it's an ideal spot for outdoor dining in the heart of a tranquil, sleepy village. The residents may be few, but those who appreciate a good pub are indeed very lucky.