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The Staith House, North Shields, pub review: 'ingenuity in netfuls'

North Shields Fish Quay has been pulling itself up by its bright yellow wellies of late. A stretch of ale houses, restaurants, fish-and-chip shops, cafés and a brasserie now presents a tasty frontage to the town’s harbour, so The Staith House – a pub straddling traditional and contemporary – has to keep on its toes.

Competition breeds ingenuity, which The Staith House has in netfuls. Formerly The Dolphin and within nosing distance of freshly-landed North Sea riches, it reverted to its original 1807 title following a total refurbishment.  As a confirmed upcycler, I’m impressed by the redeployment of vintage brick and timber. The bar counter has clearly been marinated in fathomless North Sea fishing trips while brass portholes, a ship’s bell, and a miscellany of maritime artefacts have been salvaged from a local vessel called Marigold which give the pub a nautical air that’s thankfully not too overstated. 

As a confirmed upcycler, I’m impressed by the redeployment of vintage brick and timber

Wallpaper is patterned with the names of ports historically connected with North Shields shipping – destinations such as Shanghai, Cape Town, Maine and Helsinki are cloaked in expectation, mystique and romance. A fresh-faced menu that alters daily  (and often by the hour) depending on availability offers “meat from the farm and fish from the sea” – better than the other way round. I consider Isle of Lewis mussels, game stew and 35-day aged rump of beef, then order grilled fillet of Shields mackerel, samphire and gooseberries with hunks of home-made bread and home-made butter (made with home-made salt). I’m taken aback at the sheer quality. My accompanying sauvignon blanc from Touraine in the Loire – perfect for moments of loafing like this – is ripe green fruit in a glass. 

Curiously, Staith House beers aren’t quite as adventurous as its food, but Deuchars IPA, Theakstons Lightfoot Bitter and Robinsons Dizzy Blonde, with a supporting range of keg lagers and bottled beers, are honest and reputable and well tended. Lightfoot (4.1% abv) does what it promises; straw in colour with a dance routine of peach-like aromatics and a floral hop palate. I’m picking up snippets of conversation from the six lunching ladies at the next table. “William’s not normally huffy – he was monopolising Susan all morning,” says one. “I’ve told him he’ll get a girlfriend when we go away at the weekend.” It’s disappointing to discover it’s not menfolk they’re comparing, but dogfolk. I take a stroll along the harbour wall just as the Newcastle to Amsterdam ferry slips by. I wave and shout to a stag party on deck: “Hope you get a girlfriend at the weekend.” They pretend not to hear.

Alastair Gilmour

Low Lights, North Shields, Tyne & Wear NE30 1HF (0191 270 8441; thestaithhouse.co.uk)