A stylish alpine retreat with soul

Photo credit: Courtesy of Silena
Photo credit: Courtesy of Silena

From Town & Country

After a short drive or train journey from Innsbruck airport, you’ll find the charming Alpine village of Vals in the South Tyrol region of northern Italy. Here, there are only a few hotels, restaurants and traditional farm buildings dotted about, and the breath-taking landscape that steals the show. The surrounding mountain range soars above the valley; in winter, impossibly pretty snow-capped peaks rise amongst the clouds; and in summer, verdant hills and forests are covered in flowers and chirping birds. It’s an outdoor paradise, especially after months of lockdown confinement.

Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA
Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA

Located at the edge of the village is the extraordinary boutique hotel Silena. Designed to maximise its sky-high setting at 1,354 metres above sea level, Silena’s exterior is encased in a striking mesh and glass design. This not only camouflages the building into the forest landscape, but it also gives guests a panoramic alpine view. Inside, it’s all about blending Southeast Asian style with South Tyrolean culture. Picture lattice-panelled rooms decorated with butterfly-motif wallpaper and navy velvet furnishings. Snug areas feature mini libraries, hand-carved locally made chairs, tatami mats and hanging lanterns.

Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA
Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA

The bedrooms are equally unique. There are 34 in total, with eight suites. Our Soulful Rooftop Suite was cosy and indulgent, with dark wood, leather sling-back chairs, white Berber rugs and a minimalist four-poster bed, above which was a skylight for stargazing. The room also featured floor-to-ceiling glass windows, a black enamel his-and-hers bathroom with homemade toiletries and a roll-top tub, a Finnish sauna and a wood burner. Balcony doors led out onto a huge wraparound terrace with magnificent views over the valley.

Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA
Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA

The rooftop spa with its Finnish sauna was a highlight for me, where I relaxed in the chill-out room that has hanging birdcage chairs and day beds. For treatments – ranging from advanced facials to ‘silence’ treatments and grooming – head to the main spa on the ground floor. I chose the Pure Silena Freedom Scrub, for which the therapist used a homemade salt scrub, hot pads, granite stones and tension-relieving ‘worry stones’ made from bog oak – it was fabulous after a day’s hiking.

A brief walk away is the gym and indoor-outdoor pool. In the summertime, it is a lovely place to relax, sunbathe and paddle amongst the meadow flowers and lush green forest view. In the winter, it’s enchanting to swim in steaming water whilst the snow gently falls around you.

Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA
Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA

The hotel’s restaurant is a sleek, romantic space overlooking the mountain slope and village below. Breakfasts include all manner of continental pastries and local meats and cheeses, but I opted for freshly made hazelnut crepes and scrambled eggs. In the afternoon, the hotel gives guests a selection of complimentary cakes and pastries with tea, which is a warm welcome home after a day spent in the mountains. Dinner changes every evening, with menus varying from South Tyrolean specialities including dumpling soup to delicious Japanese dishes. There is also an extensive wine list to choose from, which includes some excellent local suppliers.

Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA
Photo credit: Courtesy of SILENA

If you feel like exploring further afield, the local town of Brixen is worth a visit for its Baroque-style cathedral, craft shops and delis. But whether you decide to venture out or stay put, all you need to do is simply breathe in the pure mountain air to experience perfect tranquillity.

Silena (www.silena.com), from about £130 a room a night.