Sublime sushi and sake at the Arts Club

From Town & Country

Kyubi, the latest gastronomic offering from the Arts Club – one of London’s most exclusive private members’ clubs – caters to lovers of modern Japanese-European fusion cuisine. Located on the third floor of this discerning Mayfair establishment, Kyubi boasts magnificent interiors by the Hong Kong-based designer Joyce Wang, with a colour palette of sapphire, burnt orange and gold.

We were ushered in past traditional Noren hangings, beneath cherry-blossom branches and across Yosegi timber flooring, and took our seats at an onyx table by the window. The main dining area also features an illustration of Japanese fisherman on the Nagara River and silver cushions on embroidered chairs.

From the moment we sat down, we were looked after impeccably by the restaurant manager and his team. As we sipped on sake-infused mimosas, served in frosted flutes with patterned stems and a sprinkling of edible flowers decorating one side, we learnt that the name ‘Kyubi’, meaning ‘fox’ in Japanese, was inspired by a legendary nine-tailed fox celebrated in folk tales for its intelligence, wisdom and magical power. I also discovered that Joyce Wang’s contemporary mid-century design draws on an opulent Meiji period aesthetic; an era symbolising the ‘beginning of modernisation in Japan at a point when Eastern and Western principles met’.

Soon it was time to eat, and we turned to the open Robata grill and sushi counter, where we could hear the lively theatricality of the chefs sharpening, chopping and dicing. It was difficult to choose from the executive head chef Soon Li Ong’s exquisite menu of sushi, tempura and grill options, but thankfully our experienced waiter nudged us in the direction of several house specialities and suggested that we shared a mix of hot and cold seafood, meat and veggie dishes.

We kicked things off with the mini seafood tacos, a zingy trio of fresh salmon, tuna and scallop-filled crunchy shells, topped with fish roe and spring onions. Next was a ‘new stream’ sashimi plate featuring the style of effortlessly sliced salmon and tuna sashimi you’d expert from world-class chefs, swimming in a mouth-watering yuzu and citrus sauce.

Taking a pause between courses, we were invited to learn about Britain’s first-ever sake tap, recently unveiled on top of Kyubi’s bar. Conceived by the sake sommelier Sayaka Watanabe, the Imari ceramic device dispenses a non-carbonated and unpasteurised form of the traditional drink in large kegs imported from Japan. We were delighted to sample the unique brew in ornate handmade cups that matched the porcelain tap’s design.

The main event was a large porcelain platter, shaped like the head of a fox, that brimmed with a spectacular array of sushi – each exquisite piece of nigiri, maki and sashimi presented on top of a glass block, piece of bamboo or palm leaf; yellow tail with spicy miso, soft sake salmon, and sweet, juicy hotate scallops tantalised our taste bud. But it was the melt-in-your mouth otoro (the fattiest portion of a raw tuna found on the very underside of the fish) with gold-flecked truffle butter that stole the show.

Finally we devoured a selection of delicately battered tempura vegetables and succulent chicken skewers that arrived piping hot from the Robata grill, plus a plate of sublimely tender, sizzling Wagyu beef, accompanied by a single crayfish laced with lilac flowers.

For more information and to book, visit www.theartsclub.co.uk, or ring 020 7499 8581.