For some fashion folk, 9.30am is plenty early to be up and at it — particularly the night after Prada hosted a late night rave for several thousand of its closest friends. But while editors and buyers arrived at the TOD’S show this morning, sunglasses on and coffee in hand, thousands of fans queuing to get a glimpse of Chinese actor and singer Xiao Zhan, an ambassador for the Italian heritage brand, had been waiting patiently outside the old Pirelli tyre factory where TOD’s hosts its shows since 5am.
For autumn/winter 23, TOD’s creative director Walter Chiapponi delivered his latest edition of the elevated everyday wardrobe that he’s finessed since taking the helm in 2019, sticking this season to a muted palette of browns, greens and greys.
Outerwear was super strong, with a focus on the floor skimming coats that have emerged as a major trend this season. They came in brown and camel oversized military form, leather trimmed canvas trenches and the most delicious patchwork cream shearling with dark leather belt. Bomber jackets — a favourite of the street style set right now — came leather and cropped worn with miniskirts and loafers; or canvas and vastly oversized worn over shirt dresses.
Irina Shayk, Adut Akech and Imaan Hammam were among the famous faces to hit the runway, but it was OG French supermodel Laetitia Casta closing the show in a pinstripe navy trench coat (floor skimming, natch), slicked back bun and stomper boots that really woke everyone up.