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Toulon: where to stay, eat and drink in France's Var region

French flair: Notre Dame beach at Porquerolles: Alamy Stock Photo
French flair: Notre Dame beach at Porquerolles: Alamy Stock Photo

Long a favourite of the French, the Var region — with its unspoilt islands, châteaux, historic hilltop towns and flamingo-filled salt flats — has been more of a secret overseas.

A two-hour flight from London City to Toulon (midway between Marseille and Saint-Tropez on France’s southerly tip) will take you directly to the beach from April to October. And with the area full of seaside pine groves, car-free islands, water sports galore and beachfront restaurants, an entirely shoes-off weekend escape is a distinct possibility.

With an internationally recognised annual fashion and photography festival and a new art gallery, the Fondation Carmignac, set to open next year on the island of Porquerolles, there’s plenty for culture lovers too.

Var sells itself as combining the best of the Côte d’Azur and Provence, which book-end the region. Far from the madding crowds at the well-known end of the Riviera, here you’ll find sleepy medieval towns such as Hyères and Ollioules. And from the bustle of the port city of Toulon to the palm-tree- fringed seaside towns of La Seyne-sur-Mer and Six-Fours-les-Plages, it still feels relatively undiscovered. Everything you need is within a 30km drive of Toulon so get there before everyone else.

Where to stay

Looking for escapism? Porquerolles is a 20-minute ferry ride from Hyères and has a car-free national park. It’s known for its pretty village and sandy beaches which have been voted among the best in the world. Escape the crowds at the 50-room Le Mas du Langoustier (0033 4 94 58 30 09; langoustier.com) on the west of the island — its only neighbours are olive groves, and pine and eucalyptus trees. When you’re done lounging by the pool or watching the sunset from the beach, head to a vineyard or to the main square for a game of pétanque with the locals. Doubles from €310, half-board.

The medieval town of Hyères
The medieval town of Hyères

Where to eat and drink

Great food always tastes better when accompanied by a great view — and there’s no shortage of either. Head to the island of Le Petit Gaou and restaurant La Lagune (0033 4 94 07 43 29; lalagune.fr), which doffs its hat to both. La Lagune, which opened in 2016, showcases local produce in its traditional regional dishes such as octopus stew and mussels with aioli, and has an onsite shop selling local goodies including flavoured sea salts. Located in a nature reserve, with the protected lagoon on one side, ocean on the other, a lunchtime visit is perhaps the ideal time to soak up the stunning vistas of the Gaou Peninsula, just a few minutes’ drive from the centre of Six-Fours-les-Plages.

(Alamy Stock Photo)
(Alamy Stock Photo)

For those who can’t wait to get the party started, there’s the Michelin guide-listed Le Marais (0033 9 54 12 72 09; lemaraisplage.fr). Located on the beach near Hyères, the restaurant is a five-minute walk from Toulon airport, but with its terrace strung with brightly coloured lampshades it feels a world away. This is where the Hyères fashion set comes to see and be seen. It’s pricey — truffle ravioli comes in at €24 — but worth it for the environs.

What to buy

Visit the medieval centre of Hyères with a new self-guided route that takes in the city’s independent traders. Pick up a map at the tourist office or follow the signs for the Parcours Des Arts — from traditional soap-makers to jewellers and artists, there are around 20 traders on the route, with plans to double it. Vendors must create their own goods to qualify, meaning you’re sure to find some original gifts while you weave your way through the streets lined with medieval houses, Mediterranean gardens and Gothic churches.

Local soaps on sale at the market
Local soaps on sale at the market

If you’re feeling flush, head to Souleiado (0033 4 94 14 94 08; souleiado.com) on Rue Massillon. This luxury clothing label, with its penchant for patterns, florals and look-at-me colours, is a cult brand in the south of France.

Meanwhile, Toulon itself is worth a look — though it was badly damaged in the Second World War, independent retailers such as the Ma Petite Chocolaterie (0033 6 21 17 33 11; mapetitechocolaterie.com) are beginning to take hold in its rejuvenated city centre.

What to do and see

Learn about Toulon’s military past at the Memorial du Débarquement on top of Mont Faron — a cable car goes from Boulevard Amiral Jean Vence, about a 40-minute walk from the city centre, to the summit (€7.50 return). Villa Noailles (0033 4 98 08 01 98; villanoailles-hyeres.com) hosts the International Festival of Fashion and Photography every April but there are year-round exhibitions too, including one dedicated to the history of the house (which saw Man Ray and Salvador Dalí visit in its heyday).

Take a boat trip around the island
Take a boat trip around the island

The Fondation Carmignac gallery (0033 1 70 92 33 26; fondation-carmignac.com) on Porquerolles will house works from artists including Andy Warhol and Jeff Koons.

Details

CityJet (0203 48 11 259; cityjet.com) flies direct from London City to Toulon from April to late October from £120.