I tried BBC Great British Menu's Nick Beardshaw’s new Surrey restaurant and it was exemplary

The famous Balloon Girl dessert
-Credit: (Image: Lauren Cole-Lomas)


If you’re a lover of finely crafted bites, imaginatively created with locally sourced produce, you’ll want to read this. Starling opened in August on Esher High Street, with an earthy, ethereal decor and dishes too.

Chef Nick Beardshaw, left Kerridge’s in London, and launched his own restaurant showcasing his best dishes. The menu boasts Nick’s famous A Moon Shaped Pool, a winning dish from the BBC's Great British Menu.

I visited on a Sunday afternoon for lunch, and I must say: this restaurant is exemplary. My boyfriend, Owen, and I enjoyed sampling the incredible menu.

We were warmly greeted by general manager James Shaw, who talked us through the menu and promptly brought our drinks over. I started with a fresh peppermint tea, followed by a sumptuous Sussex sparkling wine, and Owen ordered a Bottle-Aged Negroni.

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The truffle crumpets were mouth watering
The truffle crumpets were mouth watering -Credit:Lauren Cole-Lomas

To kick things off, we ordered the steak tartare hash brown with black garlic for £9, and the truffle cheese crumpets for £7 to share. With a moreish truffle aroma, crisp layer and a dense crumpet, we could have eaten an entire plate.

I was taken aback by the hash browns, which were also dense, with a whipped bone marrow topping and painstakingly thin slices of steak too. This was another perfect quick bite before our starters.

Pigs Head was not a roasted hog complete with apple stuffed into its mouth, but pulled pork with a crisp outer coating. The pork was almost creamy it was so smooth, again another addictive dish.

Of course, we couldn’t visit without trying A Moon Shaped Pool, which I was most excited to try. Without spoiling the magic, the pearly surface is melted away with a Thai sauce, revealing the marinated cucumber and hand-dived Orkney scallops beneath.

The scallops, sprinkled with Exmoor caviar, were delightfully spongey and fresh. While intricately crafted and futuristic, this dish also evokes a feeling of familiar home comforts.

I had never tried anything like the steak tartar hash browns
I had never tried anything like the steak tartar hash browns -Credit:Lauren Cole-Lomas

After savouring our starters, our main dishes were brought over. Owen ordered the Himalayan salad aged beef rump with Yorkshire puddings and horseradish cream, perfectly seasoned with thick, sizzling fat on each slice.

My dish arrived too, Creedy Carver duck with neatly dolloped cherry ketchup. We indulged in huge roast potatoes, garlic roasted hispi cabbage and cauliflower cheese made with Westcombe cheddar.

The duck completely melted on first bite, and was beautifully presented with duck croustillant. The garlic roasted cabbage is an absolute must-try, with a crisp outer layer drizzled in garlic sauce.

For dessert, I had to order the iconic Balloon Girl dish, a genius take on the Banksy work. The sweet cheesecake was light and fluffy complimented with a slightly sour, glossy exterior and chocolate torte girl silhouette.

There was also a sparkling surprise which came rather unexpectedly, with a fun twist included. I found popping candy in the dessert, which brought it to life.

We now would like Champagne jelly with all our desserts
We now would like Champagne jelly with all our desserts -Credit:Lauren Cole-Lomas

We also tried the strawberries and cream choux bun, surrounded by strawberry and champagne jelly. A very natural and flavourful jelly was perfect with the light yet crispy bun, filled with cream and berries.

To finish off, we celebrated our visit with a ‘Freezer’ Gin Martini, with Hampton Court Gin and an olive sunk to the bottom of the glass. This is a sophisticated slow sipper, and was a fabulous way to end dinner.

The Starling experience was very special, and I’d say there's nowhere in Surrey I’ve visited that’s like it. This unique bistro isn’t to be missed, it makes a fabulous addition to the county's best eateries.

To visit Starling, book in via the website here.

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