I tried the blue and orange Yorkshire burger shack putting McDonald’s to shame

There’s a place for McDonald’s – by the side of a motorway at stupid o’clock when everywhere else is closed. Especially when you’re accompanied by hangry kids.

Unless it looks really grim, I’ll choose an independent eatery over a multinational chain any day. And if the kids insist on a Maccies, I’m committed enough to watch them ingest theirs before I go elsewhere to ingest something else.

I’d rather support a local business than the world’s biggest fast food chain. Besides all the fat, salt and sugar of a Maccies leaves me feeling rougher than Grimace’s armpit. That said, I am capable of enjoying one.

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It’s a large Big Mac meal and a Quarter Pounder with cheese since you’re asking. I was therefore curious to find a ‘Big Fac’ on the menu at Freddie’s Fowlers in Halifax Borough Market.

The distinctive blue and orange burger shack at the bottom right corner of the market is named after owner Bruce Fowler and his late grandad Freddie. One assumes the ‘Fac’ is a reference to Halifax.

A ‘Fac’, fries and a can of pop is on offer at a paltry £7. A regular Big Mac meal costs about 30p less.

Owner Bruce, a chef with three decades’ experience in hospitality, makes more or less everything himself. He bakes the buns, smashes the patties, creates his own secret ‘Big Fac’ sauce, writes the theme tune and sings the theme tune.

The last two things may not be true.

The ‘Big Fac’ – a cheeky tribute to the world’s most famous hamburger – isn’t all that’s on offer at Freddie’s. There’s a whole range of gourmet burgers including, for example, an Asian-style one with sriracha mayo and hoisin sauce or an ‘Ultimate’ which is basically your breakfast and lunch in a brioche bun.

Freddie’s also serves pizzas made from scratch and small plates which when I visit include: seared steak medallions, salted padron peppers and breadcrumb lasagne bites. Since 2013, every place bar Screwfix has been serving ‘gourmet burgers’, many of which only constitute ‘gourmet’ if you have four legs and bark at the postman.

Unless you’re largely herbivorous you’ll have suffered one; defrosted patty of suspicious texture, stale bun, catering burger sauce.

But a good burger – and I include the Big Mac in this category – is hard to beat for shameless, wanton indulgence. The Big Fac though is in a league above that.

Forget dry and salty patties; the two in the Big Fac are succulent without the ubiquitous explosion of grease that hits the diner on the table behind you. Topped in gooey, yellow cheese, gherkins and a slightly sharp Big Mac-esque sauce, it’s burger heaven.

The fries are decent; subtly flavoured with oregano and lemon juice. Like Greek roast potatoes it’s a solid combination that makes me feel slightly embarrassed when I ask for barbecue sauce.

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I’m not reviewing the can of Cherry Tango it came with because it’s a can of Cherry Tango. You can have Pepsi and other types of widely available pop if you prefer.

Freddie’s is only a small joint, so it encourages chat among strangers. Indeed Bruce plays host when he’s not in the kitchen. Compare the laidback, convivial vibe of Freddie’s to the din of screaming kids, swearing teenagers and harried parents one often encounters in McDonald’s.

The absence of that alone is worth the extra 30p.

Service is fast. It’s fast food after all, although a longer wait for food as fresh as this would be perfectly acceptable.

Seven quid for food and ambience this good is astounding value. The Big Fac meal is usually £8 but that’s still excellent value and well worth the piddling premium over it’s almost-namesake.

Unfortunately, there isn’t a Freddie’s Fowlers at every other British motorway service station. At least, not to my knowledge.

If there was Ronald McDonald would be quaking in his red, oversized boots.