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'Give us a real solution': Restaurateurs react with scepticism as Sadiq Khan calls for immediate curfew cut

Jeremy Selwyn
Jeremy Selwyn

Chefs, restaurateurs and other members of the hospitality industry reacted with scepticism today after mayor Sadiq Khan called for the 10pm curfew to be scrapped "immediately".

While the curfew has been unpopular since it was first announced, with it branded "nonsensical" by many in the business, Khan's latest announcement is seen as "too little, too late" by restaurant and bar owners struggling to trade under the Tier 2 restrictions, which prohibit different households from mixing indoors.

In a statement, Mr Khan said: “I have said for a while that the current curfew rule needs to be rapidly reviewed. We saw the worrying consequences of increased social mixing on the streets and on public transport in the capital around 10pm immediately after its introduction.

“Now London and other parts of the country have moved into Tier 2 and higher restrictions, which prohibit household mixing, the current 10pm curfew policy makes even less sense and should be scrapped.

“Immediately scrapping the 10pm curfew would allow more sittings of single households in restaurants throughout the evening, helping with cashflow at a time when venues need all the support they can get.”

While it might be expected that Khan's comments would be broadly welcomed, there are many who are uncertain what difference the move is likely to make since Tier 2 was introduced by Matt Hancock last Friday. The move of London from "medium" risk to "high" risk devastated the West End over the weekend, with 75 per cent of bookings scrapped as businesses across town and trading conditions described as "horrendous".

"Keep the 10pm and scrap the non mixing of households, that's what's killing us, not the curfew," said Tom Aikens of Muse in Belgravia told the Standard, "People aren't eating out late much anymore anyway, but the restriction on households is disastrous. We've had huge numbers of cancellations, even tables of two as they're from different households. We restaurants rely on being a meeting point for people. It's shambolic."

James Cochran, the chef-owner of 12:51 in Islington, was in agreement: "It’s great that Kahn is supporting hospitality in London but it’s too late, restrictions are changing too much and customer confidence is already damaged.

"With the tier system we have already seen a reduction in bookings for all hospitality businesses across the country and unfortunately the damage is already done in our opinion."

His thoughts were echoed by Victor Garvey of SOLA in Soho. "If this were a week ago, this would make a huge difference because we’d basically be back to normal, but with Tier 2, it doesn’t do anything because you’ve cut us off at the knees anyway.

"The 10pm was dissuasive to diners, but now [the government] has effectively prohibited people from going out. I’d rather much rather have curfew than Tier 2."

The damage to trade since Tier 2 was introduced was a sticking point for many the Standard spoke to, with the curfew now seen as the far lesser of two evils. At present, the majority of UK restaurants are trading at somewhere between 40 and 50 per cent of their normal revenue levels, which makes them economically unviable and permanent closures are expected soon; those that do will join the 25,000 venues who have closed in 2020 so far.

I have no idea whether the mayor has the power to relax the curfew, whether he really wants to or is vainly attempting to posture his way back into the industry's good graces, and whether it will make any difference

Jackson Boxer

Townsend at Whitechapel Gallery founder Nick Gilkinson told the Standard he did not expect and reversal of the curfew to make much difference to businesses across the city. "To be completely honest trade has dropped off to the extent that there isn’t enough demand to do a second sitting since Tier 2 restrictions came into place last week.

"Earlier in the month we had the opposite problem of having to turn away diners as we can only do one sitting in (what is now) our 26 cover restaurant. That said, I’d support abolishing that 10pm curfew as I believe it is a step in the right direction to restoring confidence in Londoners going out to restaurants."

A similar weariness was offered by Jackson Boxer, the chef who runs both Orasay and Brunswick House. Boxer said: "I have no idea whether the mayor has the power to relax the curfew, whether he really wants to or is vainly attempting to posture his way back into the industry's good graces, and whether it will make any difference when people are prevented meeting anyone outside their household.

"All we know is no-one in our industry is getting sick. A miniscule percentage of cases are traceable to restaurants. We are doing everything right, and are not the problem. Every measure directed at us seems arbitrary and performative, and in some cases – such as the curfew – demonstrably counter-productive."

Boxer's comments are supported by figures from Public Health England, which reported that of the 174 “acute respiratory infection” outbreaks recorded in London last week just six could be traced to “food outlet/restaurant settings”.

While Khan's annoucement was met with a sigh in some corners, in others it sparked frustration. Tom Brown of Cornerstone expressed dismay not at Khan's announcement, but at the ongoing handling of the crisis by the central government.

"I mean, I thought it was going to get worse and I don’t want to f***ing moan all the time, but they’re literally making it going up as they go along," Brown said, "It baffles me that Sadiq's the only one of them who can't see the logic in the curfew. And I'm glad he's said it, credit where it’s due, I hold my hands up to it.

"But that’s the first time I’ve heard anyone's plan or their take from inside the government, and that’s worrying.

"The government, they don't understand with any of these things, with this Tier 2 – you try it for one week or two weeks and it had so much impact. It’s people f***ing lives. They’re puppet masters and they’re ruining f***ing lives. What are that lot doing? Sat around f***ing Napoleon's table going: four legs good, two legs bad, bank good, hospitality bad.

"This curfew thing now, it’s too little too late. That curfew won’t be lifted any time soon. It’s hard not to feel deflated at the minute: everyone’s had the wind knocked out of their sails. It’s hard to have any faith."

However, others met Khan's news more warmly. Calum Franklin of the Holborn Dining Room took a more optimistic approach: "You have to experience closing time under a 10pm curfew in a city hospitality venue to understand how badly it undermines the concept of making guests feel welcome. Having to ask guests for bills to be quickly paid and for them to leave is an uncomfortable position and one I'd like to see the back of immediately.

"Anything that can be done to soften the hammer blow of Tier 2 restrictions should be embraced right now. "

Charlie Gilkes, co-founder of the Inception Group, went some way to agreeing, telling the Standard: "It's good to see the London Mayor start speaking up for hospitality – better late than never. Cutting the curfew would certainly go some way to help bolster our trade and without households being able to mix there is no sensible argument to keep it in place.

"However, alone it wont be enough and an enhanced job support scheme is needed for the sector, without employers needing to contribute for time not worked, whilst the Tier 2 and 3 restrictions are in place."

Gilkes' summation was echoed by Brodie Meah of Highbury's Top Cuvee, who said simply: "Financial support is what’s needed now. The public have well and truly been deterred from visiting hospitality venues, whether that’s at 5pm or 11pm.

"Give us a real solution."

Read more

Khan calls for 10pm curfew to be axed in London amid Tier 2 curbs